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M1 Garand

arjayr
I just got a correct grade M1 from CMP. I don't know a whole lot about them, I field stripped it and cleaned it by using the instructions included. Everything looks great. I was wondering though, the instruction say I should have it looked over by an experienced gunsmith before firing. Is this just a c.y.a. statement, aren't these rifles headspaced and test fired? Thanks, John
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Comments

11 comments

Date Votes
  • arjayr
    Just bought one and now have the question - aside from one at a time is there any way to easily load the clips?
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  • idahoducker
    There's a good forum here.
    http://www.thecmp.org/forums/
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  • nmyers
    It's not just the markings, but the shape & color of many parts. There are a couple of books that you can buy, but a website isn't going to be much help.

    If you want to post some photos, we might be able to help you.

    Neal
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  • mark christian
    Give us some of the information and we can help you.

    Unless the photos are of extremely high quality and all the numbers clearly readable, please list the information along with the photos.
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  • arjayr
    Okay thanks for the input. I will get some photos and put them up. I have a list of #'s off the parts and the markings on the barrel I think the pics will make it all easier. The reciever and barrel are H&R as are the sights The rest is a mix of H&R and SA. The SA parts have differing serial # sequencing. I am told that some are 1950's and some are 1960's. I look forward to hearing your input after I post Pics.
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  • rstbkt69
    I would have to disagree on the website not being of any use. I have been a member there for 6 weeks and have learned a hell of a lot. You'll need to look for a link to the old board because they recently changed formats and didn't have the capability to archive the old board to the new one. Read as much as you can and you can find out about what the guns are going for. You need to uderstand that having a mix master, which is what 90% of all Garands are, is normal for these guns. Just think about when they were tore down for the arsenal rebuilds that all the same parts from all the rifles were checked for readiness and then picked up and installed on a barreled receiver and they were picked out of a pile with no worriers about where they came from. Some parts from some rifles may be desireable to some collectors but on a whole more comes into play than just the sum of the parts. The only thing from the 60's would be your barrel and maybe a stock. most of the rifle will be from the 40's. Throat errosion and muzzle wear will have more of a factor on its value than the parts. If your stock has the cartouches still intact those could add to the value more than your parts. Too much in the big picture to easily set a value without letting the guys here see the pics.
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  • arjayr
    I have gauged the rifle. TE 2.5 M 1.5. I am now trying to determine if the trigger group is exceptional the # sequence is different from all the rest of the SA parts used to build the rifle. I have shot it yesterday and today. I have the good fortune of living on a parcel that affords me the opportunity to have a safe 500yrd. range. 3 rounds 7/8 inch,shot off open sights from a rest. Better than your average CMP shooters grade produces in my experience.3 rnds. 1 1/2 in. off hand. Again beter than your average shooters grade from any era to my knowledge.
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  • HARO
    You may also try The garand collectors association.
    www.thegca.org
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  • rstbkt69
    You don't need to convince us, you need to convince the person that is going to pay you cold hard cash for the rifle he wants. Follow some of the guns being sold on the auction. Thats the best indicator of the market. You may want to hold on to this one for a while till the prices turn around. Right now it doesn't look like the market for shooters are doing very well. Unless it is in collector quality not many of the guns are moving.
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  • arjayr
    I do not intend to sell it.It is the first Garand I have owned and I would like to understand it. I have found lists containing serial # ranges and dates of manufacture. The barrel has it's date stamped on it 5-55. I would like to know what the other markings mean. One is clearly a P and one is the DOD stamp. There is an M with an X above it slightly offset.There is also what may be another P stamped on the barrel near the reciever. I do not yet know what these mean nor do I know what the RS52 stamped inline with the serial# and date mean.I only want to assign a value to it for insurance purposes.There no cartouches on the stock.It is the slightly larger stock of the korean war era.
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  • mark christian
    It sounds like a typical mix master M1 worth around $600 if the wood is nice. You already figured out the date on the barrel and the DoD acceptance stamps. The P is the proof marking and the other letters and numbers are simply production codes and lot numbers for the steel used in the barrel. The "serial number" on the barrel is no such thing, it is simply the production drawing number and that same number appears on tens (if not hundreds) of thousands of other M1 barrels. Value is going to be determined by how original the rifle is, how many correct parts it has and how few rifles like it may exist. Right now it sounds pretty typical and the insurance company is not going to give it any extra value simply because it shoots accurately.
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