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remington 700 .223

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5 comments

  • tomcat_blackknights
    not sure on the mil dot thing, but ive been loading 55grn vmax and at 225yds its dead on. at 275-300 it seems to drop about 4.5-5.5" thats with 21.5 grns of imr 4198 with 23.7 hodgens 322 it drops about 6-7" at 300 yds or so. and i have shot in winds up to 10mph at about a 45 degree angle and i just kept the cross hairs dead on. to me it doesnt seem to have the wind effect it alot. not sayin it doesnt. im just sayin i get lucky.
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  • midnightrunpaintballer
    that's interesting. you have the bullet drift on elevation and not windage and mine is the opposite. are you shooting with the gun sideways like a hollywood gangsta? [:p] also, what types of groups do those loads typically put out? I'm wondering what I can expect from this rifle... anyone else have advice or know where i can learn more about using a mil dot scope?
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  • JustC
    ummmmm, OK

    1. There is a windage turret for adjusting horizontle drift.

    2. It wasn't flat from 100-300yds, not possible.

    What you are seeing is that a small difference in windage at 100yds, is magnified 3X over at 300yds, and add more for wind.

    If you first mount a scope, and get it left/right correct at 25yds, it will still be off left/right at 100yds. You will not notice the 1/4" etc of left/right variance at 25yds, but once it is magnified 4x at 100yds, you will see the difference. You have to think in "angles". A 1" offcenter at 100yds, will not be 1" at 300yds, it will be 3" (1"x 3)

    Take 2 pencils, and mark them at even intervals down the body. Now, hold them together at one end, and move them apart at the far end. If you measure the distance between the first mark, and the mark nearest the spread apart end, you will have a basic understanding of MOA (minute of angle). That is the exponential difference of a small difference applied over a long distance. Scope adjustments follow this rule, be it up/down, or left/right.

    Wind will add to or detract from this drift depending on the side you are are off, VS the direction of the wind. I.E. if you are 3" right at 300yds, and the wind is blowing hard from the left, it will push the bullet left, and may decrease that drift from 3" right to 2" right or less.

    Also, you are using a load from a semi-auto rifle, for a bolt gun. The chambers will not be the same size, the twist rate is most likely not the same, etc. You need to work a load for your bolt gun, and keep it seperate from your semi-auto rifle.
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  • nononsense
    midnightrunpaintballer,

    On the surface, it appears that you've given us a lot of information. In reality, there is very little useful information supplied to allow us to help you.

    You may have mounted your scope on the rifle but did you bore sight it? If you didn't, I'm surprised you got as close as you did at 100 yards. I suggest that you find the optical center of the scope first and then bore sight it carefully. Be sure that it's level and stable while working on it.

    You will not be able to shoot 'flat' out to 300 yards with a 100 yard zero using standard .223 Rem. ammunition. My basic charts for the 55 gr. FMJ loads show a drop of 10 inches + a little at 300 yards. You can use the charts at Federal Premium to get a better idea of drop and drift for this cartridge:

    http://www.federalpremium.com/products/details/rifle.aspx?id=5

    Mil-Dot scope reticles require some math to use properly. This is a fairly complete series of short articles that will walk you through the process of understanding and using the Mil-Dot:

    http://www.mil-dot.com/Mil_Dot_Information.htm

    After wading through the reading, you can use your new knowledge by applying it to this practice skills software:

    http://www.shooterready.com/lrsdemolow.html

    If you have more questions post again.

    Best.
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  • midnightrunpaintballer
    Thanks for the help. Yes the gun was boresighted prior to shooting. It did put about 15 rounds at 300 yds right at bullseye level with holding the scope dead on. They just hit way right. The gun was in a rest while I was shooting as well. The ammo I was using was made up of well used brass, magnum primers, bulk 55gr fmjbt from midway.com, and 28.0 grains of 748 powder which is a compressed load. These were the only components I could get my hands on so I found the load in my book that uses them. As I've said before, this ammo was loaded to be fired in my ar-15, all the brass I have has been previously fired in my ar-15. As long as the ammo functions and will shoot minute-of-bad-guy, I never really cared much more than that when using with the ar-15. It was also the only .223 ammo I had on hand when I went to sight in the 700 and I wasn't expecting super accuracy. I really appreciate the links as well. Is my ammo loaded that much hotter than factory loads??? I'm now confused as to why it didn't drop...
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