model 29-2
Hi all,
Long time lurker first time poster.
I just bought a Smith model 29-2. Now I am a Ruger man on the norm BUT a 99.9% model 29 that is tight as a.........well lets just say it hasen't seen many rounds, for $300.00 I could not pass it up. It has the pinned barrel and recessed cylinder. I think made from 68 to 81 but thats it. is ther somewhere to look up the serial numbers to get Mfg. date? Here it is. Any help would be appreciated.
Long time lurker first time poster.
I just bought a Smith model 29-2. Now I am a Ruger man on the norm BUT a 99.9% model 29 that is tight as a.........well lets just say it hasen't seen many rounds, for $300.00 I could not pass it up. It has the pinned barrel and recessed cylinder. I think made from 68 to 81 but thats it. is ther somewhere to look up the serial numbers to get Mfg. date? Here it is. Any help would be appreciated.
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in my s&w 29-2 6inch barrel, when i shoot factory it fires fine but when i try reloads i get a miss fire 1 out of 6 seems to be the norm,
i marked the cylinder to see wich on it is but its random, my brother had the same problem said it was the fireing pin, he sent his back to smith the fixed it for 180.00, but used new parts not the orginal -2 parts, can i get a orginal pin been searching but to no avail, any help out there0 -
First thing, I'd be sure the strain screw was all the way in.
Second thing, I'd be sure the primers in my reloads were seated at or below flush with the case head.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Hawk Carse
First thing, I'd be sure the strain screw was all the way in.
Second thing, I'd be sure the primers in my reloads were seated at or below flush with the case head.
Agree with gun strain screw (probably not culprit but very easy to check). Also trigger/action job and/or lighter mainspring can make ignition unreliable. Has this been done?
Agree that sub-optimal primer seating is a likely culprit. Might want to also make sure the primer pockets are clean before seating the primers.
Last resort, you can also try using different primers in your reloads, since some are "harder" than others.0 -
FYI the strain screw is under the stocks on the front of the metal grip. Tighten it all the way. 0 -
the 1st thing i checked was the strain screw, my brother was with me and every round that didnt fire in mine fired in his, so im thinking the primers are seated ok, dont know about a trigger job, ive owned this gun since 2000 and i had never had anything done to it, maybe the spring got weak? 0 -
I'm not aware that S&W ever went to MIM firing pins. Also, I don't recall ever seeing S&W springs that got weak, but I guess it's possible. The -2 change is not worth a significant premium, especially once it's been fired, so I wouldn't fret about use of later parts if needed for repair.
If the most likely cures suggested above don't do it, you might want to consider having a local 'smith do a complete inspection & cleaning. There might be a worn/damaged part in the lockwork, or there might be some parts that are gummy from oil breakdown; this will require removing all the parts from the frame.
Neal0 -
quote:Originally posted by nmyers
I'm not aware that S&W ever went to MIM firing pins. Also, I don't recall ever seeing S&W springs that got weak, but I guess it's possible. The -2 change is not worth a significant premium, especially once it's been fired, so I wouldn't fret about use of later parts if needed for repair.
If the most likely cures suggested above don't do it, you might want to consider having a local 'smith do a complete inspection & cleaning. There might be a worn/damaged part in the lockwork, or there might be some parts that are gummy from oil breakdown; this will require removing all the parts from the frame.
Neal
As far as I know there never were any MIM firing pins since Smith went to the internal firing pin system before it started using MIM parts. Also, not EVERY part is made with MIM, even on the newer guns, and the firing pin is probably a part that wouldn't be made that way in any case.
I sort of doubt the problem here is specifically related to the firing pin geometry. The primers for reloads are the same primers used in commercial ammo.
I have seen "tuned" guns (either reduced strain screw tension, altered mainspring, or both) that weren't 100% consistent in setting off rounds (both reloads AND factory rounds).
I've also never heard of SW springs getting weak, though I suppose its theoretically possible with enough rounds fired. In practice, it would probably require more .44 magnum rounds that you could fire in many years, and I think other parts of the gun would show wear first.
I second not worrying about replacing factory original parts in a 29-2 if its a "working" gun. That's really only an issue for a gun that is like new in box and has serious collector value. A working used 29-2 with a few utterly unnoticeable replacement parts is going to be a more valuable gun than a questionably-reliable used one that's all original.
quote:the 1st thing i checked was the strain screw, my brother was with me and every round that didnt fire in mine fired in his, so im thinking the primers are seated ok, dont know about a trigger job, ive owned this gun since 2000 and i had never had anything done to it, maybe the spring got weak?
Two things, and they're non-obvious.
First of all, if the primer isn't fully seated, the first hit might act to seat it fully instead of setting it off. Then the second hit sets it off. One thing to do is check the depth of the primer dent in rounds that don't go off. (Note that if you pull a trigger and A round doesn't go off, for safety's sake you're supposed to wait ten seconds before opening up the gun, in case you get a hangfire).
Will the round go off if you put it in a different chamber in your gun and try again?
Next thing, sometimes dirt in the chamber or under the rim might prevent a round from seating all the way, and act as a cushion leading to bad primer hits.0 -
I had a friend that put the low powered Wolfe springs in his .357 and the had the same problem with reloads. When he used factory rounds the revolver would shoot every time put reloads in he got miss fires. I would guess that you have week spring or springs in your revolver. Wolfe not only have the lower power springs they also supply the standard power and if you want to replace them you can save your self a little money.
Emmett0 -
I had a friend that put the low powered Wolfe springs in his .357 S&W and the had the same problem with reloads. When he used factory rounds the revolver would shoot every time put reloads in he got miss fires. I would guess that you have week spring or springs in your revolver. Wolfe not only have the lower power springs they also supply the standard power and if you want to replace them you can save your self a little money.
Emmett0 -
I have ran into this several times on a couple of revolvers and a 94 winchester 30-30. All situations were the same factory rounds fire everytime and reloads were irradict. I would go with the primers in the reloads as the first thing to eliminate. I would bet that if you rotate the cylinder back around without even opening it the rounds would fire. Most of the posts above explain this well enough. Check seating of primers and/or try a different brand. Next would be to clean firing pin and hole also mentioned above. 0 -
ill be at the range friday and will try all the above, thanks guys 0
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