Marlin Model 97
I have a Marlin Model 97 that needs repair. The lever won't push the bolt back and forth, but it does slide easily when I have the gun apart.
Parts for this .22 Long rifle made between 1906 and 1922 are hard to find.
Does anyone know if any/some of the current production Model 39 parts will fit in my Model 97? Which ones?
Aside from Jack First and Numrich, does anyone know of a parts source?
Thanks in advance. I'm new to this forum thing and the advice I got on my last topic was really helpful.
TK
Parts for this .22 Long rifle made between 1906 and 1922 are hard to find.
Does anyone know if any/some of the current production Model 39 parts will fit in my Model 97? Which ones?
Aside from Jack First and Numrich, does anyone know of a parts source?
Thanks in advance. I'm new to this forum thing and the advice I got on my last topic was really helpful.
TK
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My nephew received a "passed down" lever action .22 Marlin Model 97 w/ takedown. From the little I was able to find, this rifle was manufactured between 1905 and 1915. Serial number is very low (I think) A3xxx. I am no collector, I'd call the condition fair for a 100 year old rifle. Bluing is probably 60-70% on the barrel & receiver. It has a 24" octogon barrel. There are a couple misc chips on the forearm and a decent sized crack in the stock. Looking for any advise, experience, and/or resources to find out more about this little plinker. Any help is appreciated. 
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made 1897 -1922 came in 16"barrel (rare) 24"26"28" should of had a case colored reciver take down,stock could be either plain straight(like you have or a pistol grip version..is bore clean and shiny with good rifling? nice gift..[;)] 0 -
The way I understand Marlin serial numbers is that they did not start using serial numbers with letters until around 1940. With out better pictures its hard to tell what you have, Marlin started putting the model number on the 39 tang in 1922. Here is a link that may help you find out more info on you rifle. You cannot shoot modern ammo in this rifle unless you change the bolt to one of the current Model 39 rifles, you can shoot low power sub sonic ammo, these are great shooters and will surprise you.
http://wisnersinc.com/additional_info/marlin_LARF_rifles.htm
Emmett0 -
I ran a bore snake thru the barrel a few times and it looked very shiny. The rifling was easilly seen, looks like it has not been worn out or abused. I didn't see any pitting, but did not take it all the way down. When we give it a good cleaning and once over, I'll be able to take a better look at the bore.
Edit: Now I understand what you mean, Emmett. Will look into the new breech bolt.0 -
You cannot fire standard .22 loads in this rifle unless you replace the bolt with a Modern Model 39 Bolt you will crack the bolt. There is no modification to the rifle just the bolt need to be fitted to the receiver and the extractor fitted (stoned) to fit the base of the cartridge. Just keep the old bolt and have a nice shooting old rifle that shoot standard .22s.
I tried firing high powered loads in a 39 fitted with the late bolt modification and the cartridge expanded in the chamber and it would not extract, I advise not shooting high powered loads in the rifle after the late Model 39 bolt modification just the standard load .22s.
Emmett0 -
badchris,
I think that Emmet has you on the right track with the newer breechbolt. I believe that the old nomeclature for the updated breechbolt is high speed breechbolt, for use with "high speed" ammunition.0 -
Finally got a breech bolt to do the swap. Is there anywhere I can go to find out the proper way to disassemble, replace the bolt, and reassemble? Or will I be fine just using a schematic for my guideance? Now that the fun part is starting, I'd hate to ruin this old rifle [:I]. 0 -
The action is fairly simple to work on when you take the take down screw out the rifle comes apart the bolt will come out of the receiver no tools required. You need a fine flat stone to fit the bolt. I used a felt tip pin to blacken the machined area on the top of the bolt. Hold the new bolt as if it is all the way open and start to slide it forward. When the bolt stops it will leave a mark on the bolt or marks. Work on the area that whipped the black marker off only not the whole machined ares. Take your time and work the bolt until you get it all the way into the receiver. If you do not have a head space gage take it to a gun smith and have him check the rifle.
The other area that you will have to work is the extractor. With the extractor in the bolt push a round into the face of the bolt and look at where extractor sets on the rim. I think you will find that the extractor will be above the rim and need to be stoned until the extractor set just above the rim where it curves out into the case. Test the extraction with snap cap, I took the firing pin out and tested the extraction, make sure you have the rifle pointed in a safe direction no matter.
Just take your time with the stoning or if you are not sure you can complete the modifications take the rifle to a gun smith. Some of these bolts will slide right inn and all that needs to be done is head space and getting the extractor working. If you need any help on the internals I will send pictures to help.
Emmett
Note: If you did not buy the components for the new bolt you will need the new Model 39 pieces, the old parts will not transfer to the new bolt.0 -
Emmett, thank you for the instruction. I did have all the modern parts needed and the swap was pretty easy. Had my nephew do all the work while I watched over. I don't have a head space, so it still needs a trip to the smith. Very happy, time to start shopping for a new stock...
Thanks again.0 -
I would leave the rifle alone or make sure you keep the parts to convert it back, the value of the rifle drops quite a bit with the bolt swap and the stock change.
Emmett0
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