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Thinking of Selling PPK, A Few Questions.

JFlaten
Ok, I am thinking about listing the below PPK for sale on the auction site. I have a few questions if you would be so kind.

Is there a way to tell the year?

What would a fair opening bid be? One that would entice bidders, but not be giving the gun away?

Any other suggestions?

87823395.jpg

87823397.jpg

Gun3.jpg
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • garanch
    I always start my auctions at a penny with no reserve and have only "lost" on one. And that one was not by much less than I had hoped for.

    Whatever you decide DO NOT use a reserve. If you are worried about not getting enough, then make your opening bid the least you would take for the gun. Alot of people will not even look at a reserve auction. When I search for a particular gun I first click on the No reserve option. That way I never even see the ones that do have a reserve.

    My thinking on starting at a penny is that you will receive a good number of bids at first. A lot of times if there are two guns listed that are identical, then the one with the most bids will draw the attention of other bidders.

    Hope this helps.
    Good luck with your auction.


    PS. Look at these pages. They show you what others have sold for on here. That way you can get an idea of a minimum opening bid if you need one.

    You can also go to the smart search option and look up completed auctions to get more ideas.

    I searched for Stainless models, I could not tell if yours was or is blued with light reflection in the photos.

    Nice photos though.
    Include alot of photos in your auction. This always helps.

    http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=134933404
    http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=141492518
    http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=139065100
    http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=141831577
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  • rsnyder55
    All markings were buffed off except the serial number. Perhaps by contacting Earls Repair or Walther you may be able to get a year of manufacture.

    It could have been a German marked one or a Manhurin marked one. Depending on which, it could have affected the value.

    As a shooter, I'm guessing about $300 range. Just a WAG on my part.

    As another question: If it was imported, is the gun sellable if the importer markings were buffed off?
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  • rufe-snow
    It's a nazi era PPK, made in approximately 1939. It can be identified and dated by the "K" suffix of the serial number.
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  • beantownshootah
    As mentioned, you may be able to track the guns year of manufacture via the serial number. I can't say more than that.

    In terms of auction, I agree with the advice of starting the auction at one penny.

    Do that and you can give yourself a free "plug" on the "General discussion" thread, which will certainly generate at least a few initial lowball bids to get the ball rolling:

    a. You'll guarantee a sale, and
    b. The final sale price will be about as close to the true market value of the gun as possible.

    And actually I would be SHOCKED if you ended up getting less than $250 for this. Heck, I'd bid that myself right now. My guesstimate is more in the $350-400 range.

    By the way, your pictures are good, but they COULD be bette.

    The second picture is slightly out of focus. You can also see the reflection of your hand in the gun. . .though I'm not sure showing off the mirror-like bluing is a negative! The last image is a bit grainy, clearly a blow-up of the serial number. That's OK.

    More pictures always helps. If you have a magazine, or any other accessories, it wouldn't hurt to take a picture of those too.
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  • gary wray
    JFlaten....several of us (me included) commented on this PPk when you first posted it with better photos later. Rufe is correct that the serial # indicates 1939 or so production. The grips look right and they alone are worth $200+. But unless you need the $ bad, this is not the economy in which to sell anything including firearms....in particular reblued firearms no matter how good the reblue job is (and this one IMHO is pretty good!) It is a buyers market unless the firearm has something to distiguish it to a collector (who are still paying market prices for great samples) but IMHO no PPk collector would be interested in your reblued gun when the real deals are still available. Having said that, they are great shooters and that is what yours would be so someone interested in perhaps a good CC gun and didn't care it was not the "real deal." If it was mine, and I had to sell, I would hope to get something close to $400+ or so. You have been given some good advice on how to list it on the auction side of GB. If it was my father's gun handed down to me, I would never let it go but that is me. Good shooting!
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  • v35
    If I wanted a PPK for a carry gun, I'd pay a premium for this pistol
    in spite of having the brand and Nazi markings & proofs removed.
    It's possible the gun was a ruster that required heavy buffing to clean up.
    This pistol has machined parts whereas modern reissues have investment cast parts.
    Original parts are more durable.
    It's a beautiful pistol but refinishing killed collector's value.
    You might maximize the selling price by selling the grips separately and screwing on replacement grips.
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by v35

    This pistol has machined parts whereas modern reissues have investment cast parts.
    Original parts are more durable.






    Horsepucky!
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  • Mr. Friendly
    If you auction it post a link. I would like a shot at it.

    Thanks
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  • beantownshootah
    quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by v35

    This pistol has machined parts whereas modern reissues have investment cast parts.
    Original parts are more durable.




    Horsepucky!


    There may not be any functional difference at all (and in fact, modern MIM parts can probably be built to higher tolerances than older forged/cast parts) but I would still say forgings are more "desirable".

    "They don't build them like the used to" still has some cache, I think.

    All else being equal, and given the choice, which would you choose, a gun made from cast parts or one made from forged parts? I think most would choose the forged.
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by beantownshootah
    quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by v35

    This pistol has machined parts whereas modern reissues have investment cast parts.
    Original parts are more durable.




    Horsepucky!


    There may not be any functional difference at all (and in fact, modern MIM parts can probably be built to higher tolerances than older forged/cast parts) but I would still say forgings are more "desirable".

    "They don't build them like the used to" still has some cache, I think.

    All else being equal, and given the choice, which would you choose, a gun made from cast parts or one made from forged parts? I think most would choose the forged.



    Horsepucky! Squared!
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