AR help
I just put together my first AR-15. I had a fella that knows more than I look it over, but I wanted to get ya'lls opinion as well. He says to keep it oiled up really well, but I have heard other say dry is better. Which way?
Next: He said that I have an M-16 upper and bolt and carrier. Is this a good thing or not?
AT
Next: He said that I have an M-16 upper and bolt and carrier. Is this a good thing or not?
AT
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The AR-type rifle should never be dry. For storage & light use, oil all contact surfaces; in preparation for heavy use, grease it.
The type upper you have doesn't matter; it's personal preference, primarily differences in sights & carry handle. The fellas with the bulges in the cheap suits recommend that you not use certain M16 parts (including bolt carrier) in an AR-type rifle to avoid possible violation of the National Firearms Act (see ATF P5300.4, page 156). But, that single part will not be a problem as long as you have no other offending parts.
It may be a little late, but you might want to invest in a really helpful paperback primer: "The AR-15 Complete Owner's Guide" by Walt Kuleck. You probably should read it before you test fire your rifle.
Neal0 -
There is no difference between an M-16 upper and an AR-15 upper, also no difference between the bolts, only the bolt carriers.
You need to lube the gas rings and inside of the carrier where the rings slide. Also lube the high surfaces of the carrier where they contact the inside of the upper during movement.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
There is no difference between an M-16 upper and an AR-15 upper, also no difference between the bolts, only the bolt carriers.
He showed me the difference in the cut out length.0 -
quote:Originally posted by ATHOMSON
quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
There is no difference between an M-16 upper and an AR-15 upper, also no difference between the bolts, only the bolt carriers.
He showed me the difference in the cut out length.
Yes, the difference in the carrier is where it is machined on the bottom rear surface for interface with the autosear on the M-16.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
quote:Originally posted by ATHOMSON
quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
There is no difference between an M-16 upper and an AR-15 upper, also no difference between the bolts, only the bolt carriers.
He showed me the difference in the cut out length.
Yes, the difference in the carrier is where it is machined on the bottom rear surface for interface with the autosear on the M-16.
It seems to have a little ejection issue. A few times, the fired casing and the new round were together in front of the bolt. At other times it would eject fine, but not chamber another from the mag. Any suggestions here?
AT0 -
quote:Originally posted by nmyers
The AR-type rifle should never be dry. For storage & light use, oil all contact surfaces; in preparation for heavy use, grease it.
Agree there. Every "authority" I've ever seen recommends running the AR-15 lubed. Which lube is BEST a matter of debate, but any quality gun oil or grease ought to at least work.
On the M16 parts, FWIW, this is the rule in question:
quote:"In order to avoid violations of the NFA, M16 hammers, triggers, diconnectors, selectors and bolt carriers must not be used in assembly of AR-15 type semiautomatic rifles, unless the M16 parts have been modified to AR-15 Model SP1 configuration."
The BATFE says this, but I would like to add the following:
-So long as your gun only fires one shot at a time and CANNOT fire more than one shot at a time, who the hell would ever know or care what kind of bolt carrier (or other internal parts) you've got in there?
Of course you want to follow the law, and of course you don't want to bend rules if you can possibly help it, but short of your gun literally being diassembled in front of a BATFE agent, or used in an actual crime (the disassembled, etc), I don't see how anyone would ever know.
-Whatever their guidelines, even assuming your gun did contain a "bad" part or two, it would still be up to the BATFE to prove beyond a reasonable doubt to a jury of your peers that you've constructed or intended to construct an illegal weapon. They'd have an awfully hard time doing that if your gun were legitimately a semiautomatic and you lacked the other physical parts or provable intent to do the conversion.
In short, I think you're fine with just the bolt carrier, but to be absolutely safe, you should be careful not to install or even possess any other M16 type parts.0 -
ALL moving metal to metal surfaces NEED lube. I dont care what it is or even if it is a gun, it needs lube.
I usually use CLP. As stated a couple drops on the bolt where it rides in the carrier. A couple drops on the carrier where it rides in the receiver. For normal everyday range use I would consider a bit more just for good measure and the better lubed the less wear you will get. If you are in combat in very sandy/dusty conditions excess lube can/will attract dirt faster leading to increased wear and possibly failures. In that situation find the oldest person with the most local combat (actually firing his weapon) and find out how he maintains his.
Had a buddy of mine that bought 2500 rds of some ammo. Well it would not work in his rifle and was going crazy trying to figure out what to do about it. I took one of my rifles down there one day to test with him. I fed 60 rds perfect. So I pick up his rifle to see if I can find out whats wrong with it. This guy is a fairly smart gun guy so I was figuring he had a bad part in it somewhere. I pull the bolt back and dang that was gritty. I open the gun up, dry as a bone. He had spray can of CLP so just gave the bolt a good shot of it. 90 rounds though his gun with 0 failures that day. Moral, guns need lube.
I will second Walts book. I have the one for the M14/M1A and worth every penny, I should get the AR one some day.
As for the bolt, they are all the same. The carriers are one of the parts that are different. From what I have read all over the internet (dont believe anything you read on the net [:D] ) Colt ONLY ships with FA style carriers in ALL of their guns. From what I understand a lot of the match/target shooters use them in there guns for the extra mass.0 -
Clean is good, but contary to what some people parrot about AR's/M16's religious cleaning isn't what's required for reliable functioning - It's lubrication.
If dry they'll function fine up until the point that fouling builds up, then start choking frequently. If the bolt and carrier are heavily lubed the rifle will continue running even when filthy dirty. Note that 'heavy' is defined as enough that you can see it wiping around when rubbed with the tip of your finger.
I've seen this issue many times during range instruction. You'll inevitably have some show up with absolute minimal lube on their rifle with the idea that too much is a bad thing. They learn the error of their ways when the see all that's required to get it running smoothly again is simply squirting some lube on the bolt and carrier.
If you absolutely/positively need your rifle to function, keep the bolt and carrier wet.0 -
I had a discussion about AR maintenance with my son-in-law in August. He has 2 tours in Iraq with lots of contacts both times. His cleaning routine was to clean after 2 patrols if no contact or upon return to a secure area after significant firing. He thought my AR lubing was a little excessive but OK. Apparently there is a difference in the type of sand/dust throughout the desert as he didn't encounter the fine talc sand some have reported. His comment was "a lot like an Iowa gravel road in summer". 0 -
first, i am sure you have used multiple mags, and had feeding problems with all of them? If not it may just be a bad mag.
if you have used several mags and had problems with each of them, I'd check and make sure the reciever extension is properly installed, and clean out the gas tube with a proper Brush..
If you are still having problems after the first 200 rounds be sure check back with us.
Also never, never leave any lub in the barrel or chamber..0
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