ruger mki pistol springs
10-1-09: pulling the bolt back slow and letting it go back into the closed position slow, pull the trigger, click. pull the bolt back fast and let it close slow, pull the trigger, click. pull the bolt back slow and let it slam, pull the trigger, nothing. pull the bolt back fast and let it slam closed simulating shooting, pull the trigger, nothing. lost???
I got the wolff springs kit for a MKI .22. I got no problems changing out the trigger spring or firing pin spring. My question is, how do you change the recoil spring and the hammer spring. I can't figure out how to get the recoil spring assembly apart and although I can see the pins in the mainspring housing which ones do I need to take out?
found the manual online here: http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/ruger_mki.pdf
im waiting for one of those places to have them in stock, as soon as they do I plan on purchasing one, as according to the ruger website, since these guns have been discontinued the parts are on short supply. like to have spare parts just in case anything were to happen. the reason for changing the springs is that it was manufactured around '79 and i dont have any idea as to the complete history of it, was trying to give it some tlc beyond basic cleaning. im also still having problems with it cycling. no ftf or fte just failure to engage the hammer so i have to manually cock it back after every shot. im using the 10rd mkii mag that came with it, got a 9rd mki on the way to see if that may be the cause. ive also read about faulty disconnector or bad sear. after replacing the springs etc, sear was next on my list. i know itd jsut be easier to take it to a gunsmith, but i like tinkering and im not trying to make any crazy modifications, just get it back into real good condition.
also the reason i bought the spring kit was for the extra power recoil spring. with the pistol empty, if i pull back on the bolt to fast it won't engage the hammer, but if i pull it back slower it engages the hammer everytime. i was hoping the extra power recoil spring would slow the bolt down some and maybe correct the problem. any suggestions?
all springs are currently factory, i replaced the sear and trigger with factory replacements that were ordered from midwayusa. ive detailed stripped and cleaned the gun with the brake clean then reoiled it. a good cleaning was the first thing i did when the gun got home.
ive checked and rechecked several diffferent places online it's definitely back together right. even have the sear spring facing with the short in towards the center of the pistol and up with the long end behind the sear spring stop pin. ordered the volquartsen target sear from midway, hoping that wil fix it, the plus will be the lighter trigger pull that will come from replacing it.
I got the wolff springs kit for a MKI .22. I got no problems changing out the trigger spring or firing pin spring. My question is, how do you change the recoil spring and the hammer spring. I can't figure out how to get the recoil spring assembly apart and although I can see the pins in the mainspring housing which ones do I need to take out?
found the manual online here: http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/ruger_mki.pdf
im waiting for one of those places to have them in stock, as soon as they do I plan on purchasing one, as according to the ruger website, since these guns have been discontinued the parts are on short supply. like to have spare parts just in case anything were to happen. the reason for changing the springs is that it was manufactured around '79 and i dont have any idea as to the complete history of it, was trying to give it some tlc beyond basic cleaning. im also still having problems with it cycling. no ftf or fte just failure to engage the hammer so i have to manually cock it back after every shot. im using the 10rd mkii mag that came with it, got a 9rd mki on the way to see if that may be the cause. ive also read about faulty disconnector or bad sear. after replacing the springs etc, sear was next on my list. i know itd jsut be easier to take it to a gunsmith, but i like tinkering and im not trying to make any crazy modifications, just get it back into real good condition.
also the reason i bought the spring kit was for the extra power recoil spring. with the pistol empty, if i pull back on the bolt to fast it won't engage the hammer, but if i pull it back slower it engages the hammer everytime. i was hoping the extra power recoil spring would slow the bolt down some and maybe correct the problem. any suggestions?
all springs are currently factory, i replaced the sear and trigger with factory replacements that were ordered from midwayusa. ive detailed stripped and cleaned the gun with the brake clean then reoiled it. a good cleaning was the first thing i did when the gun got home.
ive checked and rechecked several diffferent places online it's definitely back together right. even have the sear spring facing with the short in towards the center of the pistol and up with the long end behind the sear spring stop pin. ordered the volquartsen target sear from midway, hoping that wil fix it, the plus will be the lighter trigger pull that will come from replacing it.
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Call or write Ruger and the will send you a owners manual for free.Buy a whole recoil spring unit from Brownells or the Gun Parts Corp.Why are you changing the springs in
the first place ?
EvilDr2350 -
Many MKI, MKII, MKIII parts are the same.I would give the pistol a good cleaning.Brownell's sells many Ruger factory parts.Use good ammo like CCI Mini Mags and the gun will stay cleaner longer.Cheap ammo will dirty up the gun quicker.I try to only use the cheaper ammo in bolt actions and revolvers.I field strip my 22 autos after shooting about 500 rounds and give them a cleaning with Break Clean that I buy at the auto parts store,then reoil.I have found most Ruger 22 auto pistol problems are due to a dirty gun.I take the whole pistol down after about 1500 rounds and do a total cleaning of every little part.I would buy any extra parts now while you can still get them.Ruger is selling less and less parts each year.
EvilDr2350 -
"Any suggestions?"
Yes. Put all the factory springs back and clean the gun.0 -
I just bought an absolutely rusted and pitted Ruger pistol for 100 bucks on GB about 8 weeks ago. Looks like it was left in the house after a flood. (Bore was ok,, took a bit of scrubbing to clean it and make it shiny) I called Ruger in Az and got a manual and replaced every one of the internal factory springs and new grip screws for about 30 bucks. New grips on eBay for 10 bucks, 2 new mags from Ruger.com for 15.00 each, and can of Brownells grey parkerized bake-on finish was 40 bucks (Haz-mat fees are the killers here).
Bead blasted it, finished it, and just like you I couldn't figure out how to reassemble it. I had to have a friend put it back together for me....(Now it shoots like new, 200 rounds Federal Lightning.22LR the first day with no hiccups). Good luck with your project, once it's together it'll shoot for another 40 years.0
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