cleaning antique guns
I'm sure this has been covered many times,BUT,I have an old Frontier Merwin & Hulbert that is very gummed up.What can I soak it in to loosen it up. I would like to only disassemble it into it's three main parts first. (removing the grips first, of course) Thanks for any suggestions.
0
-
Pure 100% acetone for all of the steel/metal parts. 0 -
This won't affect any finish that's still left? 0 -
Kroil (avaialble at hardware stores) is a great penetrant oil. Acetone is a good solvent for dissolving dried oil. Do be very careful, it is rather flammable, and will eat paint off whatever it gets on. Kroil will get under dried powder, carbon, dried grease, lead deposits, etc and pop it loose. Remove grips, let it soak for a day or so. 0 -
One of my favorite ways of cleaning up gunky old guns that I don't want to totally disassemble is to break it down into its major components, or whatever wants to come apart easily. Then I spray these subassemblies with carburetor cleaner from the auto parts store. Get the nonflammable kind with the small tube nozzle. You can stick that little tube into tiny holes, against adjoining parts, etc. It does a really great job without the danger of aggressive, flammable solvents. Don't forget to follow up with a light oiling of everything because whatever you use will strip away all the oil along with the gunk. 0 -
My vote is for Kroil after removing all wood grips etc Then put whole thing in zip lock barrel with enough that after shaking the whole gun is wet turn over every 8 hours or so and let soak at least 24 hours 48 hours is better. then wipe with burlap or course CLOTH never steel wool or scotch bright or abrasive. maybe Brass pot scrubber if really dirty. 0 -
I've had good luck with all of the above mentioned too. I have also had good luck using laquer thinner. Great de-gummer, but will leave a residue. (easily cleaned up). Good luck! 0 -
quote:Originally posted by pecospark
This won't affect any finish that's still left?
No, it will not. Acetone will rapidly disolve all old grease, oil, powder residue, and everything else that has gotten into the action, but it will not harm or hurt case color finishes or blued/browned metal finishes. As pointed out, keep it off of any painted surfaces, or any type finish found on the stocks. Use it in a well ventilated area, and no sparks or flames allowed[B)].
Kroil is a superb penetrating oil, designed to loosen and free up surfaces that have corrsion issues.0 -
Wear protective vinyl/rubber gloves when using any solvent, especially acetone. Most solvents we use on guns are carcinogenic, mutagenic, & toxic, & are readily absorbed through the skin or lungs.
Also put on goggles; if you wear glasses with plastic lenses, they WILL be ruined if you get acetone on them. [V]
Neal0 -
quote:Originally posted by nmyers
Wear protective vinyl/rubber gloves when using any solvent, especially acetone. Most solvents we use on guns are carcinogenic, mutagenic, & toxic, & are readily absorbed through the skin or lungs.
Also put on goggles; if you wear glasses with plastic lenses, they WILL be ruined if you get acetone on them. [V]
Neal
Neal,
I agree that most solvents are nasty chemicals, and that they can cause some real health issues if not properly used.
That said, pure acetone is actually quite mild to the human body, and it poses very little health risks. Finger nail polish remover's primary ingredient is acetone. The human body actually produces small amounts of acetone naturally, and it can readily deal with it in small quantities. Casual contact with skin is not cause for concern (unless in large or sustained quantities). Breathing the vapors should be avoided to the maximum extent possible. If you are interested, it is quite easy to reference an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for acetone online.0 -
Thanks to everyone. I was concerned about removing any of the patina.I guess that's not a problem. Good forum! 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
10 comments