What is the best way to restore grips?
I have an old set of walnut target sized grips I'd like to restore. They came off a duty S&W 686, thus were carried a lot.
Should I steam the dents before or after stripping the finish?
How to strip? Elsewhere I read to dunk the grips in acetone for a few days, but somehow, that doesnt sound right. Is paint remover better indicated?
Once stripped, how do I sand and polish?
How to best preserve the checkering?
Once polished, how do I finish? Is teak oil OK?
I plan to later install such grips on a Model 65.
Thanks all for your input.
Should I steam the dents before or after stripping the finish?
How to strip? Elsewhere I read to dunk the grips in acetone for a few days, but somehow, that doesnt sound right. Is paint remover better indicated?
Once stripped, how do I sand and polish?
How to best preserve the checkering?
Once polished, how do I finish? Is teak oil OK?
I plan to later install such grips on a Model 65.
Thanks all for your input.
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Try the paint remover and a old tooth brush on the checkering. Then steam dent and sand smooth part. Try a brass brush to clean checkering before finish.
Use whatever finish you want that will hold up. Tung oil works good.0 -
Doc, they would look alot better if you had somebody re-run the checkering while they are stripped. 0 -
Um, a few tips/hints.
-If you are going to sand, I think that should be the last step prior to re-finish (eg after removing the finish and dents). Sand in the direction of the wood grain, and use progressively finer sandpaper.
-If you can help it, its best to sand as little as possible.
-The best way to preserve the checkering is not to sand it. A reasonably good way to approach cleaning it is just with solvent and a toothbrush. I've seen a set of checkered High Standard grips restored really nicely with just a toothbrush and Murphy's oil soap.
If you're going to sand the rest of the grips, tape off the checkering prior to working so you don't accidentally sand the checkering.
-As to final finish, there are a number of finishes you *could* use depending on your preference and how you want it to look when you're done.
Sure, teak oil could work. I think "teak oil" is really a mixture of linseed oil and tung oil (either one of which could also work by itself).
Birchwood-Casey Tru-oil is another proprietary mix containing linseed oil that is pretty inexpensive and relatively easy to find at sporting goods or gun stores.
Multiple thin coats are what you want.0 -
Should I steam the dents before or after stripping the finish?
After, you need the finish off for the steam to swell the wood fibers.If you have dented checking, go lightly with the steam, little bits work far better then one big blast.
How to strip? Elsewhere I read to dunk the grips in acetone for a few days, but somehow, that doesnt sound right. Is paint remover better indicated?
I use a pan of lacquer thinner, with the grip setting in it, and 0000 steel wool to give it a light scrubbing. Scrub and keep the wool soaked in thinner. Use a toothbrush on the checkering ( have to find one that won't melt in the thinner, green GI nylon gun cleaning brush works)
Once stripped, how do I sand and polish?
I use 320grit wet or dry for the rough stuff, then move to 400, then 600
How to best preserve the checkering?
Body and Fender protective masking tape while you're sanding, run it along the outside edge of the checkering border, and trim with a razor knife
Once polished, how do I finish? Is teak oil OK?
Boiled linseed oil or Tru Oil, but for an easy to apply, and a great natural wood finish, I've been using Tom's 1/3 Mix Military Gunstock Wax http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com/Products.html Works great on the checkering too, apply it with a toothbrush.0
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