Thom. Contender breaks open when firing
I have a carbine built on a Contender frame chambered for .17 machIV.
The problem is that it will occasionally break open as you shoot it. When that happens, I can really clean the locking block of any oil, etc. and it will work fine for a while (anywhere from as little as 25 shots up to 100 or so) before it starts doing it again.
Looking at the locking block (or whatever it is called), I can see that it is not "flat", it has some angle to it. Is this angled face normal, or is it a sign of wear? I cannot tell if the frame is showing wear - it looks pretty good to me.
I am just wondering if this is a common problem - that the block is worn and needs replacing, or if I have something else going on.
I have included a picture of the rifle and a close-up of the action with the arrow pointing to the locking block.
Thanks for any help!
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
The problem is that it will occasionally break open as you shoot it. When that happens, I can really clean the locking block of any oil, etc. and it will work fine for a while (anywhere from as little as 25 shots up to 100 or so) before it starts doing it again.
Looking at the locking block (or whatever it is called), I can see that it is not "flat", it has some angle to it. Is this angled face normal, or is it a sign of wear? I cannot tell if the frame is showing wear - it looks pretty good to me.
I am just wondering if this is a common problem - that the block is worn and needs replacing, or if I have something else going on.
I have included a picture of the rifle and a close-up of the action with the arrow pointing to the locking block.
Thanks for any help!
[img][/img]

[img][/img]

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Nice looking wood on your rifle. The block needs the angle but You do have a problem I for one would not shoot it until I had a gunsmith that was currently up on the Contender to check it out. I consider it dangerous as is. 0 -
Try shooting it with one hand (it's only a .17 fer crissakes), and do not touch the "trigger guard" with your other-than-trigger fingers.
Friend of mine solved this problem in a .223 Contender pistol that way.0 -
I have made sure that nothing was touching the trigger guard (believe me) when shooting it. That was my first thought, as I shoot it a lot off of a sandbag.
It is pretty disconcerting when it breaks open, but I have never had the case come out any farther than the extractor pulls it.
It's a fun rifle - makes a mess out of gophers and is easy to load for (just have to be very careful weighing the powder charge.)0 -
There are a couple of issues that could be at work, could be an easy fix or bad news.
First, if the barrel is new to the frame the locking lugs may need to be fitted a bit. Although Contender barrels are interchangeable to all Contender frames, the manufacturing reality is that variations can cause a problem and the problem most often seen is that the bolts do not sufficiently seat to allow the action to work - pretty obvious when that happens, the hammer can not be cocked. You may have just enough engagement to activate the locking fly, but not enough to allow the bolts enough "purchase" under the shelf of the frame. If that's the case - and this is one I've done over the years - is a very slight stoning of the top edges of the bolts or new bolts.
The other possible fix, or used in conjunction with stoning, is an extra heavy bolt spring. You can get them from Bellm T/C in Oregon, just check on line.
The "I hope it's not this" issue would be that if the bottom leading edge of the shelf in the frame - under which the bolts lock - is rounded up sufficiently as to preclude the bolts from locking tightly. You have an older frame, so it's possible - but my guess is you can do a repair with stoning the existing bolts, or replacing them or by using a heavy duty bolt spring. I routinely shoot 375 JDJ, 45/70 and 35 Remington through my 14" handgun barrels on an old frame - I figure if anyone would stretch or round I would, and I haven't so you should be fine.
To inspect the frame, remove the barrel, look at the frame head on. That bottom underside leading edge inside the frame is the shelf the bolts sit under. It should be nice & sharp - not "cut your finger" sharp, but a distinct edge.
The top of the locking bolts are angled as a way of ensuring a long lasting, tight fit when powered by the springs. If they were perfectly flat they'd become loose after a short period.
These are easy and inexpensive fixes, since you can change the barrel you can replace the spring and the bolt - drift out the one roll pin and they'll drop right out.
Check out Mike Bellm's T/C website - all sorts of "this is how you do it" info.
And BTW, if you're looking for inexpensive barrels, Natchez has them brand new from $166.00 for a 223 - it's the Bergara brand, I bought a 7-08 Encore and am happy with it, where else can you get a "new" rifle for so little. [;)]0 -
I would send it off to TC, and let them fix it. They will do that for nothing.
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+2 on sending it to TC they will fix the problem for you at no charge.. 0 -
No Brainer. Ship it back to Thompson and get it fixed right for free. If they can't fix it they will send you a new gun. 0 -
No Brainer. Ship it back to Thompson and get it fixed right for free. If they can't fix it they will send you a new gun. 0
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