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WTB M1 carbine / which one?

carbine100
I am in the market for an M1 carbine, but cannot afford a collector grade gun. It will be a shooter. What do I need to look for and what do I need to avoid? Where am I going to find the most value for my $$$ ?
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Comments

5 comments

Date Votes
  • Frontiersman101
    If you find more than one in the cheeper range let me know. I would like to have one as well. Thanks.
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  • iwannausername
    Do you qualify to buy from the DCM/CMP ? If so, I'd head that way...
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  • dfletcher
    Inland manufacture the most and is probably the least expensive in general. I would say look around and see what's out there. Also, make a basic decision as to what you want - the earlier model with no bayonet band and the simple "L" flip rear sight or one with a bayo band & the adjustable rear sight. There are alot of other differences between M1s, those are the more prominent though.

    I waited a bit, finally found an Oct '42 Inland in excellent shape and all correct for $599.00 from a store that sold almost exclusively new guns, they didn't really know what they had. Beautiful oily smooth stock with virtually no dings and +90 finish. With 6 million of these made I think there are still a few good deals out there.

    Be certain you get a GI M1 and not a commercial. I'm sure some of them work well, but as a group they seem to me to have problems functioning properly.
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  • dcs shooters
    Go to www.odcmp.com They have Inlands for $419 and up.
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  • Blairweescot
    quote:Originally posted by dcs shooters
    Go to www.odcmp.com They have Inlands for $419 and up.


    CMP has been out of Inlands. Double check that they have any. My Pop had to re-order a Saginaw because the CMP was out of Inlands. This was last month. Nothing 'wrong' with a Saginaw

    In my opinion, there's no 'superior' maker of M1 carbines. They are all WWII made if they are legit USGI carbines, and they all have gone through arsenal rebuild

    In regard to CMP rifles, my advice is to buy as good a grade as possible. If the next grade up takes you an extra week to save the dough, do it. Nothing 'wrong' with a rack grade but the relatively small difference in price for the next grade up is food for thought
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