S&W 686 question
Good afternoon everyone. I was looking at a S&W 686 3" a couple of days ago and was wondering if this gun is considered too large/heavy for concealed carry? If so, what would be the largest/heaviest revolver to consider for concealed carry? I already have a J frame, but was looking to size up. I really am impressed with the new night guard line of revolvers. Any suggestions on where to atart my search? Thanks.
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What would make the cylinder bind/hard to open on a Smith 686 ? is it something I can check out or is there a problem with these revolvers that needs gunsmith attention ?
It opens , but it's a lot harder than it should be to unlatch and rotate the cylinder out for loading and unloading .0 -
Sound like the ejector rod has worked loose and backed out, not allowing the center rod to depress the detent in the barrel lug. Carefully check and see if you can move the serrated end of the ejector with a narrow jaw pliers counterclockwise. If you can just tighten the rod until you can open the cylinder and snug up the ejector rod. 0 -
Three possibilities: (1) Loose ejector rod as already mentioned, (2) Buildup of unburned powder flakes behind the extractor star, (3) If it is an early 686 and has not been modified via the recall, it could be backup of the primers into the firing pin hole. 0 -
Out of the three mentioned above, eliminate #2+3. If you can turn the cylinder tose aren't the problem. Your ejector rod has backed out like 284fan said. Slide a small screw driver in at the end of it before you push the cylinder release to push in the spring loaded plunger. After you get it open, use padded pliers to tighted it up. 0 -
Wait!
Must load at least a couple empties before turning the guide rod!
Otherwise, you may damage the pins or the star.0 -
If it's a loose ejector rod your fix is very quick and simple, no tools required.
Pinch the knurled portion of the rod into the underlug with your thumb and index finger to prevent it from turning, then manually cock and lower the hammer 3-4 times. Once you have the cylinder open, insert six rounds of brass and tighten the rod with padded pliers as was described.
Due to the direction the rod is threaded compared with the direction the cylinder turns, preventing rotation of the rod while turning the cylinder causes it to tighten.
The immediate action drill if this condition occurs in a defensive situation is to pinch the rod as described, then just pull the trigger (dry fire) 3-4 times.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Txs
If it's a loose ejector rod your fix is very quick and simple, no tools required.
Pinch the knurled portion of the rod into the underlug with your thumb and index finger to prevent it from turning, then manually cock and lower the hammer 3-4 times. Once you have the cylinder open, insert six rounds of brass and tighten the rod with padded pliers as was described.
Due to the direction the rod is threaded compared with the direction the cylinder turns, preventing rotation of the rod while turning the cylinder causes it to tighten.
The immediate action drill if this condition occurs in a defensive situation is to pinch the rod as described, then just pull the trigger (dry fire) 3-4 times.
Good information, thanks!0 -
quote:Originally posted by Txs
If it's a loose ejector rod your fix is very quick and simple, no tools required.
Pinch the knurled portion of the rod into the underlug with your thumb and index finger to prevent it from turning, then manually cock and lower the hammer 3-4 times. Once you have the cylinder open, insert six rounds of brass and tighten the rod with padded pliers as was described.
Due to the direction the rod is threaded compared with the direction the cylinder turns, preventing rotation of the rod while turning the cylinder causes it to tighten.
The immediate action drill if this condition occurs in a defensive situation is to pinch the rod as described, then just pull the trigger (dry fire) 3-4 times.
I agree with the probable problem here, and with the proposed solution, but I would like to add one thing.
Before you try grabbing the ejector rod and pulling the trigger, you better be ABSOLUTELY SURE the gun is empty. Having your hand right in front of the cylinder gap isn't really the best place for it if the gun goes off.0
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