S&W Model 19-5

badchris

August 25, 2009 05:29

I have an opportunity to pick up a Model 19-5, 4" barrel, nickel finish. Wondering what I should be looking for when I check it out. I've read that the K frame does not hold up to magnum loads very well over time and cracks are possible. I've also heard that some S&W's have cylinder lock up and timing issues. I'm no gunsmith, so any advice I can get on how to identify any "deal breaking" issues with the revolver would be greatly appreciated!

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  nmyers

  August 25, 2009 06:16

  I am unaware of the problems you describe. Any revolver can develop problems due to extensive firing, but S&W's are better engineered than most. The Model 19 is actually built on a larger version of the K frame; it should be able to withstand a steady diet of magnums.
  
  Take your screwdriver set with you & remove the grips. One or both grips should be stamped with the gun's serial number. The frame under them may reveal plating problems, or factory rebuild markings. Some finish wear may be OK, but extensive wear or flaking should raise a red flag. If the finish is original, there should be an "N" stamped on the bottom of the barrel, rear of the cylinder, & on the frame.
  
  As with any revolver, check for lock up. Cock the hammer, hold it back with your thumb, & pull the trigger; while continuing to hold the trigger back, ease the hammer all the way forward. At this point, check the cylinder for lock up. Repeat for all cylinder holes.
  
  Neal

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  11b6r

  August 25, 2009 06:56

  In addition to the good advice just given, would also try cocking the revolver, and check for "wiggle" in the cylinder. Uncock, open cylinder, check play on the crane, and if ejector rod is straight (spin cylinder- rod tip should not make circles as it turns) Does ejector rod move freely for entire stroke? Would look at forcing cone- cracks, leading. Check frame above forcing cone for flame cutting. Check muzzle for dings, dents, damage.

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  beantownshootah

  August 25, 2009 09:08

  Good advice on how to test the revolvers already given.
  
  I think the story with model 19s in particular is that many developed cracks in the forcing cone from large numbers of magnum loads. This is one of the reasons the L frame was designed, and one of the reasons no more magnum K-frames are being manufactured.
  
  I've heard differing explanations for why this has happened, with the most plausible fingering 125 grain magnum loads as the culprit. The explanation is that there is more gas leakage around the shorter 125 grain bullets, AND the shorter lighter bullets hit the forcing cone harder. Good review on this topic here:
  
  http://www.gunblast.com/Butch_MagnumLoads.htm
  
  I own more than one model 19 (that alone says something, I think, see below), and these are really just fantastic guns. None of them have shown any signs of any of these problems. I've never heard that these guns are prone to lockup or timing problems, any more than any other revolver.
  
  In general, these Smith built guns are quite good, and fairly strong, and they ought to hold up to unlimited numbers of .38s, .38+Ps, and reasonably large numbers of .357s. I wouldn't try to put tens of thousands of full-power .357s through one of these, but then again, pretty much nobody does that anyway. If that's what you want to do, get one of the beefier L or N frame guns instead (eg 586, 686, 27, 627, etc). I'd also avoid trying to "push" these guns in particular with hotter than usual magnum loads.
  
  
  Smith 19-5
  
  
  Same gun with walnut thumbrest stocks and actual 25 yard target:
  
  
  Smith 19-3, 6" bbl with stock target sights:
  
  
  Smith 19-5, worn nickel finish, 6" bbl. I found this one at a gunshow, beat to crap externally, but with a nice action and clean bore. For $350. . .I didn't care:
  

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  Frontiersman101

  August 25, 2009 09:57

  I would go for it! If it functions properly that is. I just got a S&W 586 and it is curintly my favorite gun that I own. I never here anything but good news for S&W revolvers.[8D]

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  Robin

  August 26, 2009 07:05

  I think the model 19-5 included both pinned barrels and non-pinned barrels. I prefer the ppinned models but I doubt it makes any real difference. If the nickel is original and in good shape, I think you have a winner. You have received good advice for checking it over. Look for flame cutting on the top of the frame just above the forcing cone. Unless it has seen an abundance of full load 125 gr .357 magnum loads you should be fine.

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