Cleaning a 1873 Winchester?
Hello All...I would like to know how to properly clean this rifle and clean the wood. It has been in a closet for a very long time and has some spots of rust and dry wood. The rust spots are patchy the size of a pea...but seem to be thicker than normal. I can't wipe them off...any help will be greatly apprieciated. I don't want to hurt the original finish.
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First, be very careful about "cleaning" an antique rifle. Collectors prize what they call "patina".
Have seen a dozen means of removing light rust. The only one I really trust involves soft cloth OR brown paper (grocery bag) and a light penetrating oil (I am partial to a product called KROIL) Apply oil to metal only- let soak for several hours. Buff with clean soft cloth. The rust that gets picked up on the cloth is more abrasive than the cloth, so change to a clean cloth wetted with a few drops of oil when the cloth gets cruddy. Repeat until rust is gone, or your arm falls off at elbow. Do not try to do it all in one sitting- soak, clean, reapply oil, let set, clean, etc.
Most of the original old wood finishes involved linseed oil. You may also look at the products made for use on antique wood furniture. Avoid anything that says refinisher or stripper.
There are other means of going after rust= Flitz metal polish, edge of copper penny, metal pot scrubber. etc- but cannot guarantee that they will not take off finish.0 -
The first step is to remove the stocks and set them aside.
Purchase a can of Kroil and some fine copper wool. Apply a liberal coat of Kroil to all of the rusty spots, let it set for 12-24 hours, then wet the copper wool with Kroil and gently scrub the rusty spots until all of the extruded rust has been removed. While you are scrubbing, add fresh Kroil as needed to keep the area well wetted. During the scrubbing process, frequently wipe the area clean with a soft cloth, reapply more Kroil, and repeat until the area is completely free of active rust. Do not use any more elbow grease than is required to remove the rust.
Now, for the stocks, use any quality wood furniture cleaner. Never allow Kroil (or any other gun oil) to stay in contact with the wood.0 -
Thanks guys....where can i find kroil and copper wool? 0 -
www.MidwayUSA.com or www.Brownells.com, or you can buy Kroil at NAPA auto parts stores, and should be able to buy copper wool at any hardware store.
Good luck, and be VERY CARFUL to use the proper screw drivers when taking the gun apart, boogered screws are a big minus to the value.
W.D.0 -
Murphy's Oil Soap for the wood. 0 -
DO NOT remove the wood! The most common way that the quality / value of an old gun is vastly lowered is by messing up the screw heads and by opening up the gap between the wood and metal by taking things apart. Once the wood is off, there is at least a 99% chance you would be tempted to "improve" the wood by doing some sanding. It's all downhill from there. Unless it is obvious that the wood has been removed before, LEAVE IT ALONE!
It is very easy to carefully clean the metal without harming the wood as long as you take your time and don't hurry. You don't need copper wool. 0000 steel wool from any hardware store, wetted with just a little thin oil will do a better job and won't harm any original finish or honest patina. It WILL remove loose rust however which is what you want to happen. Then just clean the wood with a 50-50 mix of boiled linseed oil + turpentine. Hand rub that onto the wood and wipe off with a clean cloth.0 -
I completely disagree with glabray concerning removing the stocks!
All too often, there is a lot of nasty stuff hiding just under the edges of the stocks. I have stripped down and taken apart more old Winchesters than I care to recall, and the vast majority of them were in dire need of a careful deep cleaning.
The advice to use proper fitting screwdrivers is 100% on the money. Do not attempt to remove a screw that will not readily turn. If you have some screws that are not cooperating, put a drop or two of Kroil on them, and let it sit for a day.
Never use any abrasive material on the wood (i.e. sand materials).0 -
Good advice....thanks. I will do my best to preserve this rifle. I really want to shoot it...good idea?? The screw head on the tang is a little buggered from someone in the past...also the one side screw for the fore arm is buggered. I know it needs a good cleaning and would like to remove the wood to do so. I just don't wanna hurt the fit. I just want a good clean gun. Thanks again all 0 -
quote:Originally posted by ECO-DAVE
Good advice....thanks. I will do my best to preserve this rifle. I really want to shoot it...good idea?? The screw head on the tang is a little buggered from someone in the past...also the one side screw for the fore arm is buggered. I know it needs a good cleaning and would like to remove the wood to do so. I just don't wanna hurt the fit. I just want a good clean gun. Thanks again all
Go get a hollow ground screwdriver that fits your gun's screws and take it apart. Those screw heads can be fixed by most competent gunsmiths.
The gun was made to shoot, once you have cleaned it up take it out and let the lead fly! (with proper shells of course)0 -
Amen! In honor of needing to work on a fine old Winchester, you might go to Brownells or Midway and get yourself a good set of gunsmithing screwdrivers.[^] 0 -
I've cleaned my "73" but have not removed the stocks, maybe I'll get ambitious this winter. Mine was MFG in 1888 and I have a Cote letter for it. It's a 32-20 and my girlfriend and I love to shoot it. We get a lot of comments at the range too.
Remember what Willie Nelson said, Nothing last forever but old Fords and the natural stone. How about old Fords, the natural stone and a Winchester!0
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