Target loads: 38spec or .357mag brass?
I'm new to revolver loading and I'm going to load a bunch of target loads (lead bullets 148 or 158gr) for a S&W 66 357mag revolver with a 6 inch barrel. I havent bought brass yet and was wondering if I should load 38 spec or 357mag brass? I have a lot of loading manuals and I understand that powder/bullet combos are not interchangeable between the 2 cases, I have almost every canister powder available and notice that most of the target loads seem to be listed in 38 spec. For 50 foot practice and plinking, should I buy the 38 or 357 brass and load accordingly? Thanks
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Go with 38 Special brass. It's less expensive and more available. All of the .38 lead bullet target loads in the reloading manuals are set up for .38 Special brass. 0 -
Thanks Rufe-Snow, thats what my manual show, but I wanted to be sure since I'm going to buy a large lot of new brass. 0 -
With regard to your Manuals only printing loads for 38 spl for target loads, perhaps it is because 38 spl in allowed in Bullseye Centerfire matches and .357 Mags aren't. The same holds true for PPC matches, whether at 7yds, 25ft, 50ft (indoor) or 7yds, 25yds and 50yds (outdoor).
There is load data available for loading 148 grain Wadcutters in .357 mag. A .357 "target" load is still a GREAT "plinking" round outdoors at 50 yards.0 -
For target loads, pretty much everyone uses the .38 special cases.
These are by definition, weaker loads, and I think the lower volume .38 cases enhance reproducibility (ie accuracy) with not-full cases.
This is one reason why wadcutter loads are loaded with the bullet flush to the cartridge mouth. . .to reduce case overall case volume.
Also, even if you could get equal accuracy, I don't see a good reason to pay more for longer stronger .357 cases, if you aren't going to fire .357 power loads through them.
For iceracerx, just for interest, I've participated in PPC matches, and at least in the league I was in (which had been around forever), .357s weren't prohibited. In fact, the only caliber restriction was that you had to be using a centerfire caliber. We had guys firing 9mm luger, .45ACP, .38special, and .40SW (both from auto AND revolver!).
But even though you *could* use .357s if you wanted to, there would be absolutely no reason to do so. In a competitive situation (and money was changing hands here), why would you want to handicap yourself by spending more money on rounds or reloads that are louder, have more flash, more recoil, and no greater accuracy?
In fact, the opposite was true. Everyone who was reloading was trying to get away with the absolute minimum power they could to cycle their guns. We had .45s being shot so slowly you could literally see the bullet flying towards the target! We had one guy who downloaded 9mm lugers for his 9mm-1911 with light springs, to the point where they had about as much recoil as .22s.0 -
I'm of the school of thought where you don't use brass shorter than the chamber. I refused a .44 Magnum purchase because the prior owner only shot .44 Spl. in it, and it resulted in the chambers having a visible ring caused by "too short" a cartridge.
How many .44 Spl. did he fire? Dunno. Did he use too hot a powder? Dunno. Will the ring matter? No, if you don't mind firing full power magnums and have stuck empties in the cylinder.
Get a manual that will give you data for accurate target loads using .357 magnum brass. Won't there ever be a time when you want to reload full power loads? If so, you'll already have the brass. Just something to ponder. Best, Joe0 -
Practice loads for most .357 shooters is always .38 spl. The .357 mag loads are more expensive, and their recoil isn't fun after a box or so of shooting. Also you'll use a lot less powder. 0 -
Hello aap2,
A good idea before buying a quantity of one particular caliber brass, is to start with a box of each and work up your reloads to see what suits your S&W best. As said, though, if cost is a factor... buck, buck-n-a-half more for .357 per hundred, that is up for you to decide. EDIT: Oops. more for brass, that is, not for factory loads. 45er.
I personally have found accuracy to hold better using the larger casing in dual cartridge revolvers, (.44mag/.44special also). Have heard this may have to do with less bullet jump distance from cylinder to barrel/rifling, which makes sense. The "ring" left in the cylinder has been addressed, too.
Favorite reload in my Mod. 19 Smith for the same intended purpose, ("practice and kerplunkin'"" as opposed to formal "target" shooting, I'll surmise), is to push a .357 SWC hardcast 158gr'er to just around 1000fps. Very accurate, low recoil, very controllable, no barrel leading, happy camper. So, all that means is that without a "Specified Target Load", one can be found to suit the stated purpose in .357. I'd bet your books have one.
Too, using the larger casing, with a quick change of the powder measure you can, in fps, bounce the loads up or down at will... always following the set reloading manual guidelines for powder/bullet weight, primer, etc., of course. (And especially so if your 148gr bullets are hollow base wadcutters, which can deform easily if pushed too hot).
Best
45er0 -
Saving money, saving wear and tear on your ears, your wrist and your revolver using 38 spl - what's not to like. 0 -
One of the reasons I use .44 and .38 Special brass for target loads in my .44 and .357 Magnums is that it helps to keep target and "social" loads separated. Extensive use of the shorter brass, especially with swaged or cast bullets, may mean you have to be careful to keep chambers clean, but I've never heard of chambers actually being damaged by extensive use of short brass. 0
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