H&R 22 questions
a few questions about my new to me H&R's: 1) ia have an earlier 949 (ad-1967) that does not have the cross receiver push pin that releases the cylinder pin. is there a trick i'm missing, cause i can't get the cylinder pin out so i can remove the cylinder?
2) how interchangeable are the 649, 676, and 686 cylinders?
3) were there fluted cylinders made for these guns and can they be found now?
4) are all the gardiner guns newer than the worch. guns?
thanks in advance for answers. mikey
2) how interchangeable are the 649, 676, and 686 cylinders?
3) were there fluted cylinders made for these guns and can they be found now?
4) are all the gardiner guns newer than the worch. guns?
thanks in advance for answers. mikey
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Mikey,
I'm no expert, but can help a little.
#1. Don't know
#2. I have 8 H&R convertibles, I have done all kinds of interchanging between all models. As a rule I don't shoot mine with out the original cylinder, but, in all my switching around, I have found very few that I noticed any possible issues with. Just had a couple that were a little difficult when trying to cock the revolver. These results are from switching many cylinders around in many revolvers, and in all those, I think there were only 3 that were a little sticky when cocking. I also have bought several spare cylinders when I could find them. Have sold several to people missing cylinders. Never have had anyone have any problems using an unmatched cylinder. All in all, H&R's are very forgiving when switching the convertible cylinders.
This does not mean that every one will interchange every time!!
You still need to check timing, also if there is any difficulty cocking the revolver, you could be damaging the hand, so use caution.
#3. If there were fluted cylinders for the convertibles, I have never seen any, and I've seen quite a few.
#4. Yes Gardner guns were newer. Not sure of the move year.
Jim Hauff, who is an expert told me once, but I can't remember right now. Maybe he will come along and answer this for you.
hope I helped a little!
Jim0 -
jamesjo: thanks again, you helped me wehn i joined a couple of months ago. a couple more questions: 1) the 686 is the most modern of the western, correct? 2) i got a 650 and a 950, what's the best way to clean nickel guns? mikey
any real difference between the 6 series (649) etc., and the 9 series? i have a 949 and now a 950....i've caught your obsession...0 -
1. On the older/earlier 949 the cylinder pin is held inplace by a "ball detent" similar to that found on a ratchet wrench to hold the socket in place - there is no external release button or lever. If you cannot pull the pin free using moderate force, it's probably rusted in place and will require an application of penetrating oil to help loosen it up.
2. Jim J. has given you excellent info on this question.
3. I, also, have never seen any fluted cylinders for use on the convertible models.
4. The switch to the Gardner address occured in 1972.
Jim Hauff0 -
Hey Jim!!
I figured you would be along soon.
As usual, thanks for jumping in and sharing your knowledge. The 949 cylinder release may be good to know someday. But you know me, my 949 is an AU of course, so I just push the button!
Been meaning to email you, try to get one off to you tomorrow.
later
Jim0 -
Hi, Jim!
mikey,
From my experience on polishing Nickel pieces: I use Flitz (or equivalent) paste metal polish and a VERY soft flannel (old sheets or shirts work well). Use a little bit of Flitz and very light polishing pressure - you should see a black residue building up on the rag. When the polish dries to a haze (like car wax), wipe it off and immediately apply spray silicone with a cotton swab - working the silicone into all the nooks and crannies. Let the silicone dry and then buff it with another clean SOFT flannel rag. You will get a very durable finish that will resist further oxidation of the Nickel. I have pieces that were treated in this manner 14 years ago that have not shown further oxidation (on blued guns I apply a thin coat of light gun oil between the polish and silicone steps - the light oil will soak into the pores of the metal and when it appears to be dry - I buff it, then apply the silicone. Again, I have blued guns treated in this manner that have no signs of surface rust after 14 years.
As to the differences between the 600's and 900's - the obvious is that the former is 6 shot and the later is 9 shot - and the 900's didn't come with interchangeable cylinders and I've not seen one chambered for .22 WMRF.
The obsession/disease is spread by contact with other obsessed/diseased collectors.0 -
Yep!
Just like the swine (H1 N1 ) flu. Except, washing your hands does nothing in controlling the spread!0
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