Browning A5 repair estimate
Hello, any sound advice will be greatly appreciated. I have a Belgian Light 12 A5. The reloading action is smooth as silk and works flawlessly on the unfired shells when worked manually. The bolt stays back as it should after #5 gets out.
The gun will not eject a fired shell ( it must be fished out by hand ) and can not therefore autoload. I have no experience owning or using a Browning until now, and I am looking to avoid paying for gunsmithing if possible. The gun looks 98% of new and can not have been hunted with much, although the number of shots through it I suppose could be high despite the excellent external condition.
Other observations that may help a respondee diagnose what may be the problem. The single shot selector lever does hold the shell in the magazine and prevents reloading, checked manually.I don't know if these observations are normal for this gun or not. 1.) When the first shell is pushed into the magazine with the bolt back, the bolt automatically closes and chambers this first shell. 2.) The shell in the magazine sticks out about 1/4 " past flush with the end of the magazine, and gets pushed in flush with the end when the single shot lever is engaged. Is this normal? I am thinking yes because the manual cycling goes so smoothly.
I'll bet that if the spent shell would eject then the action would work flawlessly during live fire. So what could cause the spent shell to hang up - bolt not going back far enough? Bolt returning forward too fast? Could a worn spring somewhere explain this?
If paying a gunsmith can't be avoided, I would at least like for someone to give me a ballpark figure on the cost of my repair.
Thank you all for your replies and my Browning education!
The gun will not eject a fired shell ( it must be fished out by hand ) and can not therefore autoload. I have no experience owning or using a Browning until now, and I am looking to avoid paying for gunsmithing if possible. The gun looks 98% of new and can not have been hunted with much, although the number of shots through it I suppose could be high despite the excellent external condition.
Other observations that may help a respondee diagnose what may be the problem. The single shot selector lever does hold the shell in the magazine and prevents reloading, checked manually.I don't know if these observations are normal for this gun or not. 1.) When the first shell is pushed into the magazine with the bolt back, the bolt automatically closes and chambers this first shell. 2.) The shell in the magazine sticks out about 1/4 " past flush with the end of the magazine, and gets pushed in flush with the end when the single shot lever is engaged. Is this normal? I am thinking yes because the manual cycling goes so smoothly.
I'll bet that if the spent shell would eject then the action would work flawlessly during live fire. So what could cause the spent shell to hang up - bolt not going back far enough? Bolt returning forward too fast? Could a worn spring somewhere explain this?
If paying a gunsmith can't be avoided, I would at least like for someone to give me a ballpark figure on the cost of my repair.
Thank you all for your replies and my Browning education!
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Good evening. I'm not a Browning expert, but I do know that the A-5s have friction rings that are adjustable from using high powered loads to low powered loads. You might try to begin there. Good Luck. 0 -
Need more info. After the gun is fired does the bolt come back and leave the fired shell in the chamber or does the fired sheel come part way back with the bolt?? 0 -
First inspect and clean the chamber. With modern plastic shells (original paper shells had a wax coating that lubricated the chamber when fired) the chamber can rust and pit which could cause the gun to fail to eject. Secondly remove the barrel and clean and lightly oil the magazine tube. There may be a diagram inside the forearm. Make sure the friction rings are properly positioned. Thirdly , spray the inside of the action out with a good spray cleaner. Lubricate well with a spray lube like Break Free. Most failures with the A5 can usually be foune in these areas. I still have the A5 my dad bought in 1962. It is well used and the above is all I have ever done with it. 0 -
striperbware,
Go to www.browning.com/
click on 'customer service'
click on 'owner's manual'
On that page you will be able to download an online copy or contact Browning for a hard copy.
Inside the forearm on the outside of the magazine tube are a series of friction rings, spacers, & springs. The order of their assembly on the mag tube will determine how heavy a load will be required to operate the action reliably. Once you have the owner's manual in hand, check & make sure the assembly order is correct for your power level of amunition.
Jim0 -
you need an owners manual to explain how the friction ring system works. these are available from browning. I shoot 1 1/8 ounce loads in my light 12, set on the setting for light loads. smaller shot weights do not eject every time in my gun. 0 -
I agree with the others. Your gun is set for the higher recoil loads. Download the info so you know how to set the friction rings for lighter loads. Change them back before shooting hotter loads to keep the gun from beating itself (and you) up.
Have fun. Great gun.0 -
Daniel,
Welcome to the forums, you've been given some very sound advice, and it should solve your problem. The auto feeding when the bolt is open and you place a round in the magazine is correct for A-5s built after 1952, I think. I've shot, collected, bought and sold A-5s for years, they are fine shotguns, of all the guns John Browning designed, he was proudest of the A-5.
W.D.0 -
Gentlemen: To all who replied, I want to say a big thank you for helping me with my A5 problem. Wow, I thought the response would be pretty good given the passion of gunowners toward their toys, but you guys actually exceeded my expectations!
Consensus seems to be the adjustment on the friction rings - I have some confidence now to take the gun down and try these suggestions. I will def. go to the Browning website for that manual also. I will let you know if the problem gets resolved. Gun enthusiasts are some of the best people in the world, and very willing to help a brother out.0 -
LAST BUT NOT LEAST...DOES THE GUN 'EJECT' A SHELL WHEN YOU MANUALY PULL THE BOLT BACK (AS IN UNLOADING A LIVE SHELL). IF IT DOES THEN LOOK AT THE FRICTION RING SET-UP, IF NOT YOU NEED A NEW EJECTOR (LOCATED ON THE BARREL 'TAIL'). 0 -
The magazine tube may be cleaned and oiled but the oil must be wiped off
or the friction brake may not work and you will crack the forend.
The position of the friction brake and conical washer are dependent on the ammunition used.
Learn how to position their location from the owner's manual.0
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