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38 S.&W. SPECIAL CTG.

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8 comments

  • Laredo Lefty
    Your gun was made in 1970 according to the serial number. The model 15-3's were made from 1967 to 1977.

    Model 15's came from the factory with the smaller grips. Your grips are what are referred to as Magnum grips as they are standard on Magnum guns like the models 19, 66 and other "K" frame magnums.

    Model 15's are chambered for .38 special only, but are built on the same frame as the .357 Mag model 19's and 66's. Someone appearently had bigger hands and needed the larger grips.

    The forward screw on the rear sight holds the sight on the frame. The rear (larger) screw is for adjusting elevation on the rear sight.
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  • ElectroCad
    quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
    Your gun was made in 1970 according to the serial number. The model 15-3's were made from 1967 to 1977.

    Model 15's came from the factory with the smaller grips. Your grips are what are referred to as Magnum grips as they are standard on Magnum guns like the models 19, 66 and other "K" frame magnums.

    Model 15's are chambered for .38 special only, but are built on the same frame as the .357 Mag model 19's and 66's. Someone appearently had bigger hands and needed the larger grips.

    The forward screw on the rear sight holds the sight on the frame. The rear (larger) screw is for adjusting elevation on the rear sight.


    Interesting, I had hoped the gun was older, but, hey, 1970 was a decent year, so thanks.

    And thanks for the extra info, Laredo Lefty, but I see now that I've made a mistake. The picture of the gun in the first response (from rufe-snow...of that other thread) was of a Model 15, just like it had been stated.

    http://tinyurl.com/mkpeny

    Apparently, the first responder was only referring to the picture of the auction gun, which doesn't have an adjustable rear sight, and so [it] isn't a Model 15.

    So, my mistake [B)]
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  • givette
    Also, the sub-model (the number that appears to the right of the dash - symbol [yours is 15-3] usually (but not always) involves internal changes/improvements. Thus a 15-2, or perhaps, a 15-4 may outwardly appear identical to your 15-3. Hope I helped, Joe
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  • ElectroCad
    quote:Originally posted by givette
    Also, the sub-model (the number that appears to the right of the dash - symbol [yours is 15-3] usually (but not always) involves internal changes/improvements. Thus a 15-2, or perhaps, a 15-4 may outwardly appear identical to your 15-3. Hope I helped, Joe


    Yes, this was very helpful. I bought the gun from my brother-in-law, and he got it from a gentleman at a garage sale or yard sale, so I don't know much about the gun's actual history. Just by its looks and heft alone, I had thought it an old service revolver used by the police. Had even entertained some thoughts of using it if I ever decided to get back into security as an armed-guard.

    I know one thing, when I hold it, it looks like and feels like it means business. Never shot it though. I have two other S&W's, another 38 (a 5-shot snub-nose), and a 32, but it's the Model 15 that I'd use first for home protection.
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  • Laredo Lefty
    Electro..... That model 15 would be a very good gun for home protection, but practice with it before you do that. Also select a good round for home protection.

    The model 15 being an all steel medium frame gun and will handle whats called +P 38 ammo which is hotter than standard .38 spl and has higher velocity.

    I would recommend buying maybe 200 rds of good hollow point ammo and shooting at least 100 for practice in that gun. If you can consistantly put bullets into a torso size target at about 10 yds or 30 ft then its good to go for home protection.

    Gotta love the model 15's
    [img][/img]1919andguns007.jpg
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  • ElectroCad
    quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
    Electro..... That model 15 would be a very good gun for home protection, but practice with it before you do that. Also select a good round for home protection.

    The model 15 being an all steel medium frame gun and will handle whats called +P 38 ammo which is hotter than standard .38 spl and has higher velocity.

    I would recommend buying maybe 200 rds of good hollow point ammo and shooting at least 100 for practice in that gun. If you can consistantly put bullets into a torso size target at about 10 yds or 30 ft then its good to go for home protection.

    Gotta love the model 15's
    [img][/img]1919andguns007.jpg


    Thanks for the tips (and the additional photo). I'll bear this in mind, but I do have a question. I have extra rounds for the gun, PMC 38 SPL, as stamped on the bottom of each cartridge. Is this particular ammo adequate and safe enough for my gun? They came with the gun.
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  • Laredo Lefty
    Yes, PMC is good ammo and safe to shoot in your model 15. For home protection I would suggest a hollow point bullet for 2 reasons.

    1. It will expand in your target doing more tissue damage and stopping the threat faster.

    2. Hollow points are less prone to going through walls and hitting friendlies.

    Full metal jacket or lead round nose bullets do not expand like HP bullets and therefore dont perform as well.
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  • ElectroCad
    quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
    Yes, PMC is good ammo and safe to shoot in your model 15. For home protection I would suggest a hollow point bullet for 2 reasons.

    1. It will expand in your target doing more tissue damage and stopping the threat faster.

    2. Hollow points are less prone to going through walls and hitting friendlies.

    Full metal jacket or lead round nose bullets do not expand like HP bullets and therefore dont perform as well.

    I keep .38 hollow-points in my other S&W (the five-shot, snubby) and have almost a full box of them, so this is good info. I wasn't really sure about the PMC rounds. Thanks, Laredo Lefty.
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