7.7 jap ammo ( help)
can i pull the bullets from 7.92x57 (8mm)mauser ammo
and resize the neck and use 7.7 bullets (303 british) or 7.62 (7.62x54r)
and resize the neck and use 7.7 bullets (303 british) or 7.62 (7.62x54r)
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No, (at least not easly) as the shoulder location is different (further back on the Mauser round). The shoulder on the 7.7x58 runs from 1.850 to 1.970, while on the 7.92x57 it runs from 1.808 to 1.935 (base to shoulder and base to neck)
However, you can trim back and reform 30-06 brass, which will give you the correct shoulder location.0 -
i saw a site on the web showing both the 3006 and the 8mm mauser made in to 7.7 jap they said the 3006 case works but it is not right size for the ejector if you have a worn on the don't work 100%
i have never reloaded any shells so all i know is what i read0 -
I never had any trouble with 30-06 brass but that isn't something you do in reloading 101, and moving the shoulder forward on a case is fairly advanced reloading (your statement about having never reloaded before)
Never heard the worn extractor / extractor thing, but I know that a lot of 7.7x58 rifles have a severly "jugged" (oversize at the base) chamber.
If you are going to start your reloading with the 7.7 Jap rimless, might I suggest you start by spending a little more money up front and purchase the correct brass to start out with (either Norma $$ or IIRC Graff and Sons offers correct brass also) and progress to doing conversions after you have a handle on the entire reloading process0 -
If you are new to reloading, do as the above said...learn first before you make your own cases. Just go to the auction side and buy a couple
of boxes of 7.7 japs that have the right headstamp and are ready to shoot. At $20 per box, its a good deal !!!bob0 -
I've used 8mm brass and fire formed it to move the shoulder forward.
It was a lot easier than 06 brass that has to be formed, cut down and reamed.
The problem with 8MM brass is that it will end up a little short of the bullet cannelure.
If you only partially neck size it, the case headspace will fit the chamber and not move forward when fire forming.
I did it when Norma was the only supplier and their brass was soft and expensive. Base diameter wasn't much if any different from 06 or 8mm.
Today you have a better choice in brass.
If you have a lot of 8mm to play with try a few and see how it goes.
Jap rifles are safety breeched and will handle split cases well but wear safety glasses while fire forming anyway.0 -
Making brass is easy either from 8mm or 30-06.
For 30-06, rough trim to around 58mm. Run through the sizer die. Final trim.
For 8mm you should fireform to prevent an excessive headspace condition. I usually do this with cast bullets if I need to move the shoulder foward. What I do is this: 1. Resize the case in the 7.7 die. 2. Insert a cast bullet BASE UP- NOSE INTO THE CASE over a charge of perhaps 3 grains of bullseye powder. Seat the bullet so it jams against the rifling. In other words, just drop the nose into the case, then jam the bolt home. The bullet will be driven the proper depth into the case by the throat's rifling. This will keep the case held firmly against the bolt and allow the shoulder to move foward when fired. Then resize again and load as normal.
Otherwise, yes, you can use the bullets from .303 or 7.62X54R ammo. Most .303 ammo is loaded with cordite so I wouldn't mess with that (doubt you could get it out of the case anyhow) and even the powder for the 7.62X54R I wouldn't play with unless a very experienced reloader. Yes you could use it and work up a safe load but you don't know its burn rate so...0 -
Jonk and V35
quote:i have never reloaded any shells so all i know is what i read
While this "reforming stuff" is "easy" for us "old timers", all you have to do is read a few "new to reloading" threads to realize just how overwelming is to the new guys.
Let him get the basics (reloading 101 & 102) down, and all the begineer questions sorted out before we introduce him to the more advanced topics (case forming 302 and fireforming 401).0
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