1911 recoil springs
MidwayUSA lists various recoil springs for 1911. And, as I always heard of them referred to by some pound rating before, can the question of what is meant be clarified?
Springs for compression use have a free length, and a rating, perhaps in lbs./inch, the force needed to compress the length 1 inch.
Now, by calling out a "16 lb." recoil spring, are we talking about the FORCE on the spring at the length it is when compressed within the gun, waiting for action? Or, is it the RATE of the spring, 16 lb./inch; If it's rate, then ALL springs made for 1911 had better be of the same "free" length, or the rating becomes rather meaningless.
What's up with this rating??
Springs for compression use have a free length, and a rating, perhaps in lbs./inch, the force needed to compress the length 1 inch.
Now, by calling out a "16 lb." recoil spring, are we talking about the FORCE on the spring at the length it is when compressed within the gun, waiting for action? Or, is it the RATE of the spring, 16 lb./inch; If it's rate, then ALL springs made for 1911 had better be of the same "free" length, or the rating becomes rather meaningless.
What's up with this rating??
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Is there a source (Chart, book, reference guide, internet etc.) that will allow me to decifer the spring rates (lbs) of the various recoil springs available once they are no longer in the original package, IE, mixed up. I'm thinking maybe # of coils, relaxed length or some other method.
Maybe just a rule of thumb to get close?
I have a bunch of springs, all new in a package, not sorted or identified, just in a package. Thanks
Edit
PS the links are not breaking, Karl , they are getting all hammered up and the holes are getting egg shaped.0 -
Perhaps with a good Mic/Vernier Caliper and this link you can determine the Spring Constant for each spring. I just checked my COLT 38 AMU spring and came up with a 6 pound spring. While the numbers might not be exact, you should be able to determine the "weight" of each spring and the difference in each.
http://www.engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm
Example: Same number of coils, same OD, different wire dia; .040", .045", .050" wire = 6.23#, 10.3#, 16.5#0 -
Measure the wire size, number of active coils and free length.
They are all the same diameter so that variable is constant.
Color code the springs with paint to differentiate them and keep a note in the box.
The Buckingham spring formula is used by engineers to design compression springs.0 -
Hello Wow We need to talk if you are breaking links. Wilson has a spring pack that has springs of all different weight. I will try to get back later I am where I only have a few minutes at a time I can break free to use the internet. 0 -
If they are all the same type of spring, standard or "progressive" wound, weigh them on your powder scale. Spring load is related to the weight of spring steel in the coil. I don't know of a formula to convert that to load in pounds to compress, but you can certainly grade them from light to heavy. 0 -
Hello I took time to read all of your two post [:I]. I made a spring tester out of a 5/16/ rod and some washers. What I do is take all the full length springs I have both ends of the rod threaded. I put two springs on the rod separated by one washer Then I put a washer and nut on each end of the rod.This gives you a rod with two springs captive on the same rod. now with a vice or work bench with a hole that allows the nut to pass through but not the washer you can press on the other end and compare how much one spring compresses compared to the other spring . You can use a fish scale to measure but what you really need is just to compare one to the other. . Now lets address 1911 Links and why they get beat up. Yes your loads are not wimpy target loads but are near normal for 230 grain Hard Ball ammo. so this should not beat up a link. Old school used to use a number 13 link to force the barrel up higher to lock tighter but this caused all kinds of problems. firing pin hit off center and link lock and unlock problems.[:(!][V][:(] . Today we use match grade barrels with one low and one deep locking lug on top and with the bottom lugs oversize. now we can cut the bottom lugs to firmly lock the barrel in place with a standard length link or near standard We dont use the link to raise the barrel but rather the Barrel lugs we only use the link to pull the barrel down as the slide starts it rearward travel . This gives you a pistol that will shoot Hundreds of Thousands of rounds with very little if any wear on the link. I also stone the link pin down in the center 3/8 inch part "the part that contacts the barrel lugs from the full .200 diameter to .190 now after thousands of rounds I can install a pin that is say .192 then after thousands more a link .194 ETC ETC until I get to a full diameter pin on .200 before I have to replace the barrel This most times is 100,000 + rounds. We fit the link by installing a short link on the barrel and then see if after the link pin is installed in the large hole the link will rotate its ark around the conture of the bottom lugs. that you cut with a lug cutter . we increase the length of the links until we get one that will just clear the barrel lugs. I hope this helps if you have any questions feel free to contact me direct on my profile from your Email address & I will get back to you. Cheers Karl. 0
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