Skip to main content
Help Center Community Shop

Marlin Ballard

dale_4
I just acquired a Marlin Ballard rifle and am trying to find out a bit more about it. The receiver bears the following:

MARLIN FIRE ARMS CO NEW HAVEN CT. U.S.A.
PATENTED. FEBRUARY 9. 1875.
BALLARD'S PATENT NOV. 5. 1861.

It has the "S" shaped lever. The tang sight is gone and it has a 2" Douglas bbl installed. The bbl is marked 32 x 46 although I suspect the 6 may just be a double stamp 0. Got some loaded rounds from the PO and they are necked up 30-30's.
It's missing the firing pin retainer screw.

Enough info here to identify the model?
Where can I get parts. Are there others besides Ballardarms.com with parts and doing restoration?

Thanks in advance!
0

Comments

7 comments

Date Votes
  • perry shooter
    Hello Be aware that there was a cartridge of 8.16 X 46R witch was a German target round. as far as restoration the Douglas barrel takes it out of the collector interest but now in the vintage single shot Shooters interest so rather then restoring I suggest you leave as is unless the finish is so poor it is hard to maintain. Also be aware some of the Ballard had CAST steel receivers and will develope HEAD-SPACE problems with smokeless loads If you post to me or this forum I think we can help you with model [:p]

    Edit the finger lever if original to the rest of the action "I have no reason to think otherwise" is used on the No. 1 1/2 No.2 with "NORWAY IRON" No.3 & No.4 made by both J.W. Marlin and the Marlin Firearms Pictures of the markings would help also do you see any serial number I think it is a # 1 1/2 or # 2 both from the 1879- end of production but I might be able to tell more if we had measurements of the frame . YOu might want to look to see if you can find the book Single Shot rifles by James J. Grant or a copy of august 1927 American Rifleman with article by L.D.Satterlee. Both speak very highly of the Ballard but both warn that the design NOT the quality of material's limit these actions to Low Pressure rounds.
    0
  • dale_4
    Still haven't had the time to learn to post pictures. Also got some cast bullets with the deal, they mic .322.
    Don't know if I can live with the fat stainless bbl. A bit too incongruous perhaps.
    I did not get dies or molds from the PO although he said he sold them on ebay.
    I don't suppose there is anything to be learned from the S/N?
    0
  • MIKE WISKEY
    also maybe a .32/40, you can also have the barel recontoured.
    0
  • dale_4
    Here are some pics that should help identify this rifle.
    [img][/img]DSCF0374.jpg[img][/img]DSCF0376.jpg
    [img][/img]DSCF0375.jpg
    This is my first photo posting on this forum. Let me know if something needs to be addressed.
    0
  • dale_4
    Serial number is 34885 if that helps.
    0
  • blackpowdermax
    dale 4....more than likely, you have either a #2 (cast frame) that was made for pistol size cartridges or a #4 (forged frame) that was made for centerfire cartridges. The forged frame is much stronger. It is important that you know whether yours is cast or forged. Remove the single screw that holds the breech block in the receiver and look under the barrel. If it is hollow, it is a cast frame, solid it is a forged frame.

    If it is cast, be wary of using it for centerfire cartridges, especially with smokeless powder. It was never intended for such a load. If forged, it is stronger, but was designed for black powder, so smokeless loads must not be top end. You can do a chamber cast to determine cartridge. 32-40 is indeed a very likely suspect as it is/was quite popular with target shooters.

    Your Marlin-Ballard was made quite late in production, probably 1886 or later. There are no records to determine this exactly.

    Good luck....

    max
    0
  • dale_4
    Thanks Max,

    You say:
    quote:Remove the single screw that holds the breech block in the receiver and look under the barrel. If it is hollow, it is a cast frame, solid it is a forged frame.

    I am able to only find one exploded view of a "Ballard Lever Action Rifle". Do I assume correctly that the single screw you refer to is the lever screw? It appears from this drawing that the extractor will be freed and come out with the breech block as a single piece.

    Any cautionary words?

    Thanks, Philip
    0

Please sign in to leave a comment.

Recent Activity