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M1 carbine & sling

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4 comments

  • givette
    Place the snap end through the forward swivel. Snap it into place. Snap pointing away from the stock. Thread the other end of the sling through the buckle. You have just created a loop on the rear part of the sling. You now have one snapped end on the rifle, and one end that curves back to the buckle. The point where the sling makes the "U" turn back to the buckle is the loop we're going to focus on.

    Place the loop in the left side of the stock. Don't let the loop stick out the right side. From the right side, slide the oiler down into the loop at an angle, so the end of the oiler is already in the bottom of the recess on the right side. Push the oiler downward inside the looped sling until the top of the oiler clears the top of the recess. It's a tight fit. Grab the sling on the left side of the stock, and pull. The sling should pull the oiler into the recess. The goal here is to extend the bent sling (loop) into the stock just enough to fit the oiler inside the loop from the opposite (right) side. Best, Joe
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  • nmyers
    The problem is that genuine WW2 slings are thin & have a C-shaped tip. Most slings available today are repros, & are thick with a solid tip & won't fit through the slot.

    The easiest solution is to make the stock slot wider with a file; not a good idea if you have a collectible original stock, but it works if you have a common replacement stock. On some repros, you can pound the tip thinner with a big hammer. Or, you can buy a WW2 sling, which will cost $100, if you can find one.

    Neal
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  • Spartacus
    Is this a ww2 sling?
    it's on my 1945 enfield No4.

    dscf0287o.jpg
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  • jptatum
    It is definitely not a WWII sling.
    0

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