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Re-bluing

pruss
What are good indicators that a gun has been re-blued. I've noticed that some of the Winchesters I've looked at on this site appear to be in to good of condition for their age.

Some have darker wood where it meets the metal parts of the receiver and barrel. Does the wood, or can it, absorb the bluing to make this area darker.

Thanks.
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5 comments

Date Votes
  • pruss
    I have a 1914 Paramount pistol I got in a trade for an old riding mower. Problem is he was going to re-blue it but never got around to it. Its sitting in the bare metal state trying its hardest not to rust. The gun fires fine but if I dont make sure I keep the whole thing oiled it will rust on me quickly.

    Would I be better off doing a slow rust blue or just cold bluing it. The cold bluing method seems to fit my lifestyle better since I cant keep an eye on it for weeks at a time to get the right color.

    Cold bluing seems faster but I wonder how well the finish will be on it. The gun isnt worth a lot of money especially since it was stripped of the original finish. Its a neat piece and I want to protect it. Any advice would be appreciated
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  • nmyers
    Darker wood usually means that gun oil has been applied excessively, & the wood absorbed it. Blue isn't absorbed by wood.

    It takes experience with the model you are looking at to spot a reblue. Most refinished guns have also been polished to remove dings, scratches, etc. You need to look at all the surfaces & edges, & compare the shape & the texture of the metal with known original finish guns of the same type. Also, look at all stamped markings, as they often will be shallower once the gun has been polished.

    The color of the bluing, depending upon the age & model gun, will also vary depending upon the process used. Again, you have to compare it with known originals.

    Neal
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  • martinphoto1
    The original roll stamping of the bbl. address on Winchester's raised the height of the metal ever so slightly when it was applied as a new gun. Re-polishing the bbl. before a re-blue will 'flatten' the metal, you'll have to look carefully and with a lupe to see it sometimes. Dishing of the screw holes and uneven depth to the roll stamped markings are other apparent indicators. One quick method I've learned about Winchester's, at least those that were produced before 1898 (which is what I collect), is that the technique to blue the bbl's was a 'rust-bluing' process, on original finished Winchester bbl's you'll be able to see the brown rust color under the blue when a small strong light is put onto the bbl., such as a mini mag-lite. It's a pretty good quick check. If you don't see 'brown' be skeptical!

    Hope this was helpful,
    marty
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  • redman.com1
    as far as the wood goes, when some people refinish wood they seem to go alot lighter with the sandpaper where the wood and metal meet because its so noticable if the wood and metal isnt flush, so they dont want to take off to much wood, leaving the preped wood where it takes more stain leaving it slightly darker. also, through the years the wood soaks up oil in those areas from cleaning. as far as bluing, look for lettering the isnt sharp and any dents, dings, or pitts, that has bluing in them. if so , its more than likely been reblued.
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  • pruss
    Thanks for the replies, very helpful.
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