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Remington Model 11 Barrel Shortening

41022collector
I have a summer project Rem 11B (special grade) early Sportsman 12 ga., date of around 1920. Both barrels I have with it are buldged, they are both 28" barrels. The buldges are down as far as 7 inches. Rem installed / Poly Choke on the one barrel. Amazingly, both barrels are numbered to the shotgun with rem numbers on the underside matched to the frame and wood numbers all matching. There are two extra smithing marks from Rem on the barrels and frame (most likely adding the extra barrel).

I want to shorten the barrels, but in reading the general operation of this firearm, it requires a specific barrel weight Vs. Friction & spring torque to make the action function correctly.

One barrel w/o the choke I plan on a 21" barrel, the other barrel I plan on a 24" barrel in which I will re-install the poly choke.

1. Does anyone know what this specific barrel weight Vs. torque specification is?

2. Does the recoil and action spring also need to be either strengthened or lightened for proper function?

3. Do the friction rings need to be smithed down/up for this barrel reduction?

4. I have not been able to find a formula for this matter, does anyone have this formula to determine weight Vs. Torque Vs. Friction load?

5. Does anyone, anywhere have a cross reference chart of parts that will commonly interchange between the Rem 11, Browning A5 (FN and/or Japan) and Savage 720, 745, 750, 755?

6. Will the NEW friction ring sets and spring sets avail from Midwest for the Browning A5 work on the Rem 11?

Thanks.... this should be a interesting challange to the group.

Regards
Mike
0

Comments

2 comments

Date Votes
  • MIKE WISKEY
    well I've worked on a lot of m-11's (brownings, and savages as well) they barrel weight/recoil spring ratio thing is a bunch of bs. Reminton only lists one spring/friction ring combo for all barrel lenghts (note; there are differences for the three shot model). Same with browning and savage. You will have to keep the front bead height the same as the original, if you just add a bead to the barrel the gun will shoot very high. make sure the 'buffer' at the back of the receiver is in good condition and you are good to go.
    0
  • Idaho_Elk_Huntr
    quote:Originally posted by 41022collector
    I have a summer project Rem 11B (special grade) early Sportsman 12 ga., date of around 1920. Both barrels I have with it are buldged, they are both 28" barrels. The buldges are down as far as 7 inches. Rem installed / Poly Choke on the one barrel. Amazingly, both barrels are numbered to the shotgun with rem numbers on the underside matched to the frame and wood numbers all matching. There are two extra smithing marks from Rem on the barrels and frame (most likely adding the extra barrel).

    I want to shorten the barrels, but in reading the general operation of this firearm, it requires a specific barrel weight Vs. Friction & spring torque to make the action function correctly.

    One barrel w/o the choke I plan on a 21" barrel, the other barrel I plan on a 24" barrel in which I will re-install the poly choke.

    1. Does anyone know what this specific barrel weight Vs. torque specification is?

    2. Does the recoil and action spring also need to be either strengthened or lightened for proper function?

    3. Do the friction rings need to be smithed down/up for this barrel reduction?

    4. I have not been able to find a formula for this matter, does anyone have this formula to determine weight Vs. Torque Vs. Friction load?

    5. Does anyone, anywhere have a cross reference chart of parts that will commonly interchange between the Rem 11, Browning A5 (FN and/or Japan) and Savage 720, 745, 750, 755?

    6. Will the NEW friction ring sets and spring sets avail from Midwest for the Browning A5 work on the Rem 11?

    Thanks.... this should be a interesting challange to the group.

    Regards
    Mike
    0

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