Speaking of AR-15 Triggers
when encountering a hard/rough trigger pull, is there an easy "do-it-yourself" way to lighten and smooth out this problem, i am thinking a hard Arkansas Stone on the contacting points should do the trick, BUT !! where and how much ? any one got ideas, a link or PROfessional advice ? do not reply with "cut the springs back" as that is not the problem. i am certain many AR-15 owners would appreciate a fix to this "problem".
thank you all in advance for ideas, suggestions and/or links.
thank you all in advance for ideas, suggestions and/or links.
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The "BEST" fix is to replace the trigger assy. with one of the good ones on the market. 0 -
The "usual" suggestion is to use jeweller's rouge and polish all the contact surfaces of sear and trigger to eliminate roughness in the trigger pull. Pretty easy, and hard to mess things up to badly that way.
Of course with an AR-15 clone, there are a gazillion drop-in aftermarket triggers, one-stage, two-stage, adjustable, match, etc, and personally I would probably go that route.0 -
Definitely a replacement trigger: Jard, Jewell, or McCormick. I have a McCormick in mine. Installed about 6 months ago and it is very nice. I would not ever, under any circumance, attempt to work on the existing trigger. I have numerous stories about problems including one recently were a gun went auto at a local range and the shooter was arrested. 0 -
A light single stage trigger on a big bore semi auto is a bad idea.[:D] Got a black eye with an accidental bump fired second shot.
i have a mccormick single stage flat in an AR-15 and it is great, pull is about 3 pounds. It is a good trigger but it is on the light side in my opinion.
Be careful with a mccormick, especially if you are a new user of match triggers.
I also have a Rock river, it is the ideal trigger.
i have been considering a 2 stage Geissle speed trigger for my DPMS LR-308. Anybody have one?0 -
quote:Originally posted by quickmajik
A light single stage trigger on a big bore semi auto is a bad idea.[:D] Got a black eye with an accidental bump fired second shot.
i have a mccormick single stage flat in an AR-15 and it is great, pull is about 3 pounds. It is a good trigger but it is on the light side in my opinion.
Be careful with a mccormick, especially if you are a new user of match triggers.
I also have a Rock river, it is the ideal trigger.
i have been considering a 2 stage Geissle speed trigger for my DPMS LR-308. Anybody have one?
I might encourage you to try the Bushmaster 2 stage first. It is quite a bit less than the Geissle price wise, and I have had spectacular results.0 -
if you just want to lighten the pull a bit you can either buy a lighter sping from brownells, or cut one of the legs off your trigger spring. You will usually lighten the pull about 2 lbs just from cutting one leg. If you want it a little smoother you can stone it as some have suggested.
If going with a replacement trigger I highly recommend you stay away from the jard adjustable. I have had mine out 5-6 times and it always winds up going fa on me, so I ditched mine, wouldnt even give it away.
I use timney, or ar gold drop in's now, and have had no problem with either of these.0 -
http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm
Check this out.0 -
after studying this situation i made a FCG block drilling .1545" holes in a solid block of brass copying the exact dimensions from a lower receiver of the trigger hammer pins, then drilled two other holes for spring tensioning, a .1250" for a drill blank for the hammer stop, then a .0700" for a small pin to hold tension on the trigger spring, i made the block so that stoning of the contact surfaces of the hammer/trigger was possible, my first attempt at smoothing out and lightening the trigger pull was so successful it resulted in a very smooth no creep 2 1/2-3 lb. trigger pull for my super duper AR-15 target rifle.
BTW i also installed a Yankee Hill Mfg. rifle length free float forearm, this is one of the best and easy to install free float forearms i ever installed, it was so easy, i believe i could have done it blindfolded
Thank you YHM for an outstanding product !0 -
quote:Originally posted by USN_Airdale
after studying this situation i made a FCG block drilling .1545" holes in a solid block of brass copying the exact dimensions from a lower receiver of the trigger hammer pins, then drilled two other holes for spring tensioning, a .1250" for a drill blank for the hammer stop, then a .0700" for a small pin to hold tension on the trigger spring, i made the block so that stoning of the contact surfaces of the hammer/trigger was possible, my first attempt at smoothing out and lightening the trigger pull was so successful it resulted in a very smooth no creep 2 1/2-3 lb. trigger pull for my super duper AR-15 target rifle.
BTW i also installed a Yankee Hill Mfg. rifle length free float forearm, this is one of the best and easy to install free float forearms i ever installed, it was so easy, i believe i could have done it blindfolded
Thank you YHM for an outstanding product !
Have you tested this on the range yet? If not, I highly reccommend that you only have 2 or 3 rounds in the magazine. That is the problem with not doing this a little at a time and test FIRING it. It might function perfectly dry cycling it, but when the real inertia of live firing is added, it does funny things. I may also suggest that you have a spare FCG to drop in, and the range is empty. If the wrong person hears it double or go FA, you have then arranged for a vacation at the federal Hilton, even though you meant no harm. There are several posts in here where that has happened to a fellow, unbeknow to him that this thing he had was worked on by the previous owner. To the BATFE that does not matter, possesion is proof.
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thank you for this advice, the rifle will be test fired in my back yard (actually an open space with no one within a mile..., maybe more ! [:D]) 0
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