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Bedding Remington 700

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9 comments

  • PA Shootist
    Regarding the .243, if it ain't broke, don't fix it! You have a great rifle if it shoots consistently that good, and anything you might do may change it for the worse.

    If the synthetic stock .30-06 were mine, I'd glass bed the action at the front and recoil lug, and also at the tang screw in back, to be sure it cinches into the stock snugly and firmly without any possible movement. I'd also relieve the barrel channel to be sure it is free floated the whole length. I don't believe I would full-length bed the barrel to the stock. So far this is relatively easy and inexpensive. The BDL conversion isn't very cheap, if you are buying new parts, though I understand that it is easier/better for hunting when needing to load and unload a lot. I'd also clean the barrel very thoroughly, especially on the lookout for metal fouling, and maybe do a bit of J-B bore paste to polish it up. I'd also inspect the crown with a magnifiying glass to be on the lookout for any burrs or irregularity, and if you find any, a re-crown at a good gunsmith's shop shouldn't cost too much. And then you maybe haven't yet found its favorite load combination.
    My opinions only, if it were mine...
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  • He Dog
    Amen on not monkeying with the .243, which I don't think was your intention any way. I agree with Steel bedding rather than Accra-glas. I don't much like syn stocks, but the two mentioned are good choices.
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  • losttrail
    Thanks.

    I don't plan on anything for the .243. Again, if it aint broke....
    It's a reliable tack driver.

    The -06 is the problem child.

    I'll do some more research on the steel bed.
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  • tsr1965
    I would opt either an HS Precision, or a Houge Overmolded stock with the Aluminum bedding block. Also at this time I would do the ADL to BDL conversion, as I am pretty sure your ADL does not have the trigger and floor plate assembly that the BDL has, so this will also be a purchase needed.

    As for the bedding, I prefer to use Brownell's Steel Bed. It is not as hard to work with as the Accra Glass, and will not sugar or crumble over time like the Glass will. You will need to skim bed over the bedding block to attain 100% contact for the bedding. You should also free float the barrel all the way from the action lug forward.

    As for your 243, I do believe that I would install pillar bedding in it, and free float the barrel, and perhaps adjust the triggers on both of them to be the same.

    Best

    quote:Originally posted by losttrail
    Thanks.

    I don't plan on anything for the .243. Again, if it aint broke....
    It's a reliable tack driver.

    The -06 is the problem child.

    I'll do some more research on the steel bed.


    I will help you with the research. Go to www.Brownells.com and read all about it.

    It is a two part epoxy, that is filled in part with atomized stainless steel. It has less shriknage than any of the glass filled products, and seems to be thermally stabil. It doesn't run all over, and will stay where you put it without having to make a dam for it.

    I do somewhat agree about the two point skim bed that PA Shootist, suggested, but only if the stock was a little more stabal. That is the reason for the pillars, to mate the bottom metal and action, and the stock is merely just holding the pillars, and the action is supporting itself and the barrel. That is why I also suggested the BDL conversion.

    As for your 243, you are right..if it works for you then don't fix it. However, I am quite sure that I can get better accuracy out of it, consistantly better.

    EDIT:
    quote:Bedding question - I read conflicting information between bedding just the action/recoil lug area and full length bedding. Generally the full length entails clamping the rifle upside down in a vise and applying 3-7 lbs of weight on the barrel while the bedding compound sets up, in order to have pressure applied consistently to the length of the barrel, to reduce vibration thru the barrel.

    Which is preferable? Why so many differing opinions?

    Because there are so many different scenario's that there is not just one clear cut answer for all cases. However, when dealing with a Remington 700, you have been given sound advice, and some of it by instructors/professors who teach this stuff for a living. Get rid of the cheap stock, and get something that either has:

    A: pillars already installed; or
    B: a bedding block that mates to the action

    then be prepared to skim bed these for full contact fit to the action, for it to be done right, as nononsense has said in his post. You are looking to create stress free rigidity. Most of Remington's 700 come with a pressure point about 2 inches back from the forend tip...get rid of it.

    As the rest has suggested, try a scope on there that is a known performer, and try some Winchester Ballistic Silver Tips. Those are what I commonly reccommend for a factory accuracy load. I have yet to se a rifle that does not like them.

    Give us a heads up when you try this stuff, or get this figured out.

    Best
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  • JustC
    using that junk injection molded stock that came on the ADL is an excersise in futility. Throw it away

    Next, I like the HS precision over the B&C medalist as they are more ridgid.

    Try the HS stock first, then bed it. Or even buy a used wood stock and bed it.

    Another thought, first verify that your scope is holding zero[8]
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  • nononsense
    losttrail,

    "Thoughts? Any input is appreciated."

    I had a guy ask me to help him once because he was nearly bald from tearing his hair out in frustration. It turns out that he had a little tiny piece of garbage under his recoil lug...

    I have in the past, listed at least 50 factors that can contribute to a lack of accuracy in a rifle. The greatest of these is usually the shooter himself. The exception here is that you state you are capable of shooting a respectable group with another rifle. Other than that, we don't know anything more about this rifle, your set up, or ammunition than what you've stated, which is very little.

    While it's easy to assume (rightly so) that the Remington stock is junk right from the start, it might not be the biggest problem. I would look at the scope, base and rings first. If this is a cheap scope, start by getting something with quality and go shoot some groups. Then do a diagnostic run on the rifle itself, starting with the crown. Use magnification to look for any slight nicks or dents near the rifling. Go through the entire rifle carefully. Clean it thoroughly.

    If you don't find anything or just want to replace the stock, the B and C is a good choice. But don't take the factory advice and think that these stocks don't need bedding. They do, each and every one of them. Do a search, I've written a book on this before. Usually the holes for the action screws are out of alignment also. This pushes the barrel off to one side or the other creating new problems. Be sure to adjust the torque on the action screws correctly or you'll just be throwing your money away trying to solve your problem.

    The subject of bedding compounds is another one of those love/hate discussions. Everyone has their favorite and obviously they think the others are garbage. Outside of getting a bad batch from the manufacture, most problems occur with the stock prep, mixing the two parts, application or temperature at the time of application. I use Marine-Tex with consistent success now but I've used most of the others with success as well.

    Budget is always a consideration with all of us, it's just a matter of how much the budget is. If you haven't done any work of this type before you might want to consider a gunsmith. If you don't want to pay a gunsmith and your budget doesn't allow for all of the fixes, sell the rifle and get something that does shoot. It's that simple.

    Best.
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  • losttrail
    Thank to all for the great input. Here's a bit more info.

    Ammo shot thus far - Remington Core Lokt, 180gr

    Here's something that I know had some effect:

    Scope - Cabela's Alaskan Guide, 3.5-10x50mm

    Mounts Leupold 2-pc Dovetail with Extension rings

    I had to remove the rear sight from the barrel in order to get this scope on. I got the Leupold Extension rings because I needed to move the scope rearward for proper eye relief.

    After about the 5th shot with this setup, I noticed the Extension Ring was bent - the flat plate that joins the dovetail and the ring. It was fine at the beginning, but the recoil had bent it.

    This in turn caused the rings to dig in and dent the tube of the scope.

    I called Cabela's and they admirably stepped up, replaced the scope and Leupold rings with Leupold 1" Super High.

    I have not had the chance to get this setup out shooting yet, so I am hopefull that much of this problem is addressed.

    However, I do still want to perform the ADL to BDL conversion and put a better stock on it.

    Bedding question - I read conflicting information between bedding just the action/recoil lug area and full length bedding. Generally the full length entails clamping the rifle upside down in a vise and applying 3-7 lbs of weight on the barrel while the bedding compound sets up, in order to have pressure applied consistently to the length of the barrel, to reduce vibration thru the barrel.

    Which is preferable? Why so many differing opinions?
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  • Tailgunner1954
    quote:Originally posted by losttrail
    Thank to all for the great input. Here's a bit more info.

    Ammo shot thus far - Remington Core Lokt, 180gr




    Try some 150gr Rem Core Lokt ammo
    Try some "premimum" grade ammo in different weights
    Try some Winchester ammo (both 150 and 180gr)

    IOW it could quite easily be that your rifle simply dosn't like Rem 180's
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  • PA Shootist
    Why so many different opinions? It may be part and parcel of being a gun enthusiast! At least ever since I can remember. And that is often the fun of it!

    Most opinions about guns come from folks who are telling what worked for them. Which caliber is the best for hunting whitetail deer; which shotgun gauge is best for hunting grouse; etc.

    There is often art, and science, and mechanics, and luck associated with rifle accuracy. As far as full-length bedding versus action bedding, same thing: what works for one man, and one rifle, may not work as well for the next.

    IN GENERAL, I have personally had the best luck with bedding when only the action is solidly, repeatably and consistently parked into the stock. When the rifle recoils, everything comes back to the exact same place, with the exact same pressures and tensions on the rifle action. The barrel when free-floated usually (often?) vibrates or flexes the same at each shot if not affected by pressures from the stock. Those stock pressures can vary depending on temperature, humidity, and perhaps which phase of the moon. When free-floated the bullet theoretically exits the barrel the same way, at the same place in the pattern of barrel movement, if you are shooting consistent ammo. This overall consistency can lead to enhanced accuracy, in many cases, though not necessarily in all. There are always exceptions, because there are infinite variables that can enter into the situation.
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