700 trigger problems - updated
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I have a 700 SS. It was advertised as smithed - trigger, rebarrel, bedded etc. Bedding looks great, so I believe it. Supposedly has Speedlock in bolt. SS trigger appears to be a newer old stlye. It is peened next to slotted adjustment screws.
When I closed bolt the firing pin was "dropping" most times. I thought ok I will adjust trigger. Last 700 I did came out great.
Overtravel screw and trigger pull screw had factory gunk removed. Sear engagement screw appears to not have been touched.
Using on-line directions I have used in the past, I cannot adjust this so that firing pin is reliable. I am @ 5# trigger pull and it still is not safe.
Would an Speedlock spring make a difference (bolt has nice snap!)?
Could something have been honed improperly?
Should I get into sear engagement screw?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
*****I have just been lifting the bolt when checking it. I have not been pulling it rearward. Watching the sear through the hole I have plenty of engagement. I saw it was hanging-up. When pulling it rearward it appears to reset correctly.
Was I causing my own problems???*****
Thanks again.
I have a 700 SS. It was advertised as smithed - trigger, rebarrel, bedded etc. Bedding looks great, so I believe it. Supposedly has Speedlock in bolt. SS trigger appears to be a newer old stlye. It is peened next to slotted adjustment screws.
When I closed bolt the firing pin was "dropping" most times. I thought ok I will adjust trigger. Last 700 I did came out great.
Overtravel screw and trigger pull screw had factory gunk removed. Sear engagement screw appears to not have been touched.
Using on-line directions I have used in the past, I cannot adjust this so that firing pin is reliable. I am @ 5# trigger pull and it still is not safe.
Would an Speedlock spring make a difference (bolt has nice snap!)?
Could something have been honed improperly?
Should I get into sear engagement screw?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
*****I have just been lifting the bolt when checking it. I have not been pulling it rearward. Watching the sear through the hole I have plenty of engagement. I saw it was hanging-up. When pulling it rearward it appears to reset correctly.
Was I causing my own problems???*****
Thanks again.
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advertised as smithed is that as in BLACK-SMITH[?] . My guess is he changed some springs in the trigger and may have stoned the surface and changed angle or has the sear engagement so small because he filed /stoned off too much of one of the surfaces. I think you are goint to start from scratch with all the screws. 0 -
Yep. Best you start with new parts, and get them honed. Honed so that you know just how much they were worked.
Let's consider why the gun was put up for sale. I'll bet it's because it was "smithed"..and the "smithing" went south. Best, Joe0 -
Rather than messing with a screwed up CRITICAL FOR SAFETY part; why not just order a Jewell trigger and replace the old one. Since you have no idea what was done you may fix one thing and turn another into a ticking time bomb. 0 -
It won't cost you anything to try to adjust the sear engagement. Sounds to me like it does not have enough. Back that screw out a turn or so until it won't fire when you slam the bolt closed. Turn the screw in slowly until the firing pin drops and then back it out 1/4 turn. You have adjusted 700's before so I'm sure that's the method you've used. You'll know if the trigger is safe or not (as you say, it's NOT now). If all else fails, you can always replace the trigger. 0 -
Sear engagement screw not getting it done. I will continue to examine. Thanks. 0 -
Skyhigh_ One other possibility. On the 700 trigger it is possible, when lowering the pull weight, to actually go slightly past the point where you actually have no pressure from the spring (spring is fully extended). I suggest you increase the spring tention slightly to make sure the spring is making contact with the trigger as it should. If the pull weight is to high at that point, you are left with getting a Darrell Holland spring kit which works great to lower pull wt. but still maintain contact with the trigger. Give that a try, works for me. HAWKSHAW 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Hawkshaw
Skyhigh_ One other possibility. On the 700 trigger it is possible, when lowering the pull weight, to actually go slightly past the point where you actually have no pressure from the spring (spring is fully extended). I suggest you increase the spring tention slightly to make sure the spring is making contact with the trigger as it should. If the pull weight is to high at that point, you are left with getting a Darrell Holland spring kit which works great to lower pull wt. but still maintain contact with the trigger. Give that a try, works for me. HAWKSHAW
I'd agree - if the front bottom screw is backed out too much you'll get zero spring pressure and regardless of sear contact it will probably slip.0 -
quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
quote:Originally posted by Hawkshaw
Skyhigh_ One other possibility. On the 700 trigger it is possible, when lowering the pull weight, to actually go slightly past the point where you actually have no pressure from the spring (spring is fully extended). I suggest you increase the spring tention slightly to make sure the spring is making contact with the trigger as it should. If the pull weight is to high at that point, you are left with getting a Darrell Holland spring kit which works great to lower pull wt. but still maintain contact with the trigger. Give that a try, works for me. HAWKSHAW
I'd agree - if the front bottom screw is backed out too much you'll get zero spring pressure and regardless of sear contact it will probably slip.
I would say yes to this, but the original poster says he is at 5 lbs.
Try increasing the sear engagement. There is a little round hole that you can view this in, where the sear and striker lug mesh. If you have 0.050_0.064 inches of sear engagement and it still drops, then dumb arse took to much off the sear angle...which consequently didn't need to be changed in the first place. The older factory remington 700 triggers(not the X-mark), are very adjustable, and someone with the know can make them very acceptable to, even the above average shooter.
If this does not work, either get an aftermarket trigger, or another factory one.
Best
EDIT:
Sounds like there has been a severe change in sear angle. If you are able to access an un-altered 700 to look at it, you would be able to see that. Actually the sear itself on a 700 does not have a secondary angle. You should be able to lift the bolt to reset the sear, and not have to pull it back. If you go to Brownell's or Midway USA, you might be able to find a stock 700 trigger group, but for the little extra, there is the rifle Basic's, Timney, Jard, Jewel, Shilen, and a few others out there. They will be available in a hunting trigger, and a target type with a single set. If this is a field gun, I suggest the hunting type, as most are adjustable down to 2.5 lbs., which is more than sufficient for even long range hunting.0 -
i would replace the trigger. no use taking chances with something that an incompetent person has messed up. 0 -
Excellent comments/advices! Don't compromise safety, good luck. 0
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