Wincehster M70 pre-64
Hi all-
First post here and just looking for a little advice. I've been collecting (not seriously) pre 64 model 70's for a couple years now. Recently a .264 and 7x57 fell into my lap for decent prices. I'm working my way up into the larger calibers and see A LOT of 300HH and 375s that have been drilled and tapped for side scope mounts etc.
I am not striving for a complete collection of 98% relics, merely 85-90% condition guns, since I intend to pass the collection on, not sell.
My question is what does the drilling do to a gun value? What does a non-original recoil pad do? I assume not as much as the drilling.
Thanks in advance.
Josh
First post here and just looking for a little advice. I've been collecting (not seriously) pre 64 model 70's for a couple years now. Recently a .264 and 7x57 fell into my lap for decent prices. I'm working my way up into the larger calibers and see A LOT of 300HH and 375s that have been drilled and tapped for side scope mounts etc.
I am not striving for a complete collection of 98% relics, merely 85-90% condition guns, since I intend to pass the collection on, not sell.
My question is what does the drilling do to a gun value? What does a non-original recoil pad do? I assume not as much as the drilling.
Thanks in advance.
Josh
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I can give you my personal opinion, but each collector is different. A non-winchester pad is OK as long as the stock hasnt been cut. In other words as long as the gun came with a pad and usually that was only on the larger cals. in the pre 64 guns. As far as drilling, I wont touch one that has had holes drilled in the side around the Winchster logo.
I have recently purchased a low serial no. 1936 model 70 that had 1 extra hole drilled in the rear top bridge, but the gun is other wise damn near perfect.
You can replace the original Winchster recoil pad, you cant fill in drilled holes.0 -
Anytime extra (non-factory) holes are drilled in most Winchester models, it is a minimum 30% hit to the value. For the purist collectors (the guys with the well-lined deep pockets), it is the kiss of death.
When the time comes to sell a non-factory altered Winchester, it is considerably more difficult to do so unless you have it priced accordingly (and most owners tend to believe that their altered gun is either factory original, or still worth full price).0 -
Thanks guys. I am not one of those guys with deep pockets (hence the fact that I focus on 85-90% condition guns. Even some of these purchases have landed me on the couch more than one night.
What I'm gathering is that drilling is bad, recoil pads without cut stocks not too awful.
Thanks again0 -
100% factory original is your goal what ever the condition of wear. Basically 70s now exist in two price ranges, collector guns, all original, as near 100% new condition as possible, and shooters, those that have been and will stay in the woods working. Shooters are in the $1200 and under range for the most part, the collectables, well, the sky is the limit. The first hole drilled after the factory, pretty much makes it a shooter, unless it is an exceptional rifle like the last one Cartod got, and every hole after that seals its fate. Then again, sometimes a real bargain comes along, or a rifle just speake to you. I have a 94 that is in really nice condition, except at some point someone leaned it too close to the wood stove, in a canvas case. It got just hot enough to discolor the finish and leave the faint canvas imprint. I kinda like that, it reminds me that all these fine older guns have stories, just like we do.
By the way Cartod, you could have that hole brazed and on the surface it could look like new. Probably better an honest hole.0 -
JJ;
Welcome to the forum. Bert is always a wealth of info on Winchesters.
I collect 1952 issue Model 70's and all are correct in every detail including mounts , rings, and glass...except my 300H&H. After market butt pad and a Pachmyer side mount (2 holes). Have 5 out of the 8 listed, but not enough funds to complete....
Enjoy the Model 70...it's my favorite
Paul
Mountain Magic Gunsmithing0 -
Thanks again guys. I've been reading up a lot on the history of M70s lately and have always hunted with a pre64 .270. Like I said, I've only been in the collecting buisness for a few years and it gets addicting. Your comments back up what i was already thinking...make sure its all original first, then worry about condition second. I'd probably buy one with a different butt pad that hasn;t been cut, but (probably) never one that was drilled....unless its one I've just got to have.
Now, if I could just find that 300 savage[:)]0 -
A real collector would buy his .300 Savage in a Model 99 Savage, and kind of broaden his perspective.[}:)] 0 -
Some different prospectives on drilling:
http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3384290
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