AK FCG single hook semi-auto only Romanian
There appears to be an issue with the hammer top locking the bolt carrier if the trigger is not fully cycled forward to ready a second shot after the first shot. The dust cover has to come off and the left side of the hammer flat has to be pushed down while pulling back on the charging handle as to cock the hammer back on the trigger hook to free the carrier. My guess is this prevents any possibility of the hammer riding the carrier so that a slam fire will not happen. My question is, is this normal for a semi-auto to have to allow a full cycle the trigger otherwise lock the carrier as mentioned above?
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Is this happening when you fire the rifle or when you hand cycle the rifle? There is a difference. All AK hammers drag on the bolt carrier. That is normal. It is even more pronounced when hand cycling an AK. Solution is to pull the bolt back fully to the rear and release it.
What brand FCG do you have in your rifle and what brand ak is it? If home built what brand receiver is it?
A Century FCG will be marked with a raised C
Tapco will say Tapco G2
Also do you have the sheppards hook installed and and is the disconnector installed?
If FCG is Century and rifle is a Romanian Wasr or Sar replace with Tapco single hook G2. Make sure you install the sleeve that comes with the G2 FCG. Also make sure the disconector spring is installed.
If FCG is Tapco G2, what receiver is it going into? No Dak Spud NDS-3 receivers are known to not work with Tapco Single hook FCG's. They do work with Tapco double hook FCG's. You will need to cut another slot in the receiver to use a Tapco in a NDS-3 receiver.
If Tapco G2, & FCG was bought a year ago, Tapco had a recall on some of their G2's. The hole for the disconnector spring in the disconnect was molded too deeply. Call them and they should send out a new disconnector to you that is the correct depth.0 -
No marks on the FCG unknown receiver Romanian non-WASER10 Centery marks on the receiver has set screws on the FCG no matter what adjustments it does this hand cycled or fired as long as the hammer slips off the hook due to a sort stroke of the hammer by means of not allowing the trigger to return fully to the starting position after the first shot while the bolt carrier comes to a halt while before striping a new round by being held back by the top of the hammer. Ya know a Tapco G2 sounds like a good FCG to replace this one with but I thought I check with you guys for the best results. 0 -
Sounds like a Redstar Arms Adjustable Trigger. I've never used them, couldn't justify the price. Could buy 3 G2's for that price.
NDS usually marks their receivers on the underside just in front of the magwell (muzzle end).
I would replace it with a G2 double hook trigger. You will need to dremmel another slot in the receiver to mimick the single slot that is currently in your receiver's trigger hole.
You could try a single hook G2 but not knowing the receiver it might not work.
As mentioned before, make sure you have a sheppards hook, "E" clips, or a Tapco FCG retainer plate installed. Those 3 things keep the trigger and hammer pins from walking out of the receiver during firing.
Also on the Tapco G2 (not sure about that Redstar Adjustable trigger) there is a metal sleeve that comes with the FCG. It goes through the trigger and disconnector (over the trigger pin). That pc is necessary for the Tapco to function correctly and is not just an installation aid.
The Tapco FCG will move side to side w/o that sleeve causing all sorts of problems.
Edited to add, you might google Red Star Arms Adjustable Trigger
the 2nd link that comes up has instructions for adjusting it. You might try that 1st.
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=Red+Star+Arms+Adjustable+Trigger+&btnG=Google+Search&meta=&aq=f&oq=0 -
It has a wire crook that slows or stops the FCG pins from rotating on the receiver unlike E-clips or a plate retainer. The tube is so that the trigger axis pin will not rotate from the spring tension of the disconnector. The FCG is a single hook. If I hand grind the slot for a double hook how would it work better? The FCG very much works like a double action hook and halfmoon (like the NAA Guardian 32ACP) only backwards eliminating the need for fine machine precision. Please don't misunderstand me I mean no disrespect, I compete for a better understanding. Why then a double hook? 0 -
quote:Originally posted by 511pe
It has a wire crook that slows or stops the FCG pins from rotating on the receiver unlike E-clips or a plate retainer. The tube is so that the trigger axis pin will not rotate from the spring tension of the disconnector. The FCG is a single hook. If I hand grind the slot for a double hook how would it work better? The FCG very much works like a double action hook and halfmoon (like the NAA Guardian 32ACP) only backwards eliminating the need for fine machine precision. Please don't misunderstand me I mean no disrespect, I compete for a better understanding. Why then a double hook?
Sorry let me see if I can clarify. It really depends on your receiver. You mentioned it has no markings, did you bend it yourself? Sometimes people will miss the markings on a No Dak Spud receiver as they are on the bottom of the receiver instead of the side.
There are alot of AK's on the market right now that are romanian G kits that are built on NDS-3 receivers. Nodak Spud receivers have a known issue with Tapco Single hook triggers. They don't work in NDS-3 receivers for some reason.
Builders that are aware of the problem, cut a second slot in the receiver's trigger hole for the extra hook on the Tapco trigger.
Here is the slot that I was talking about:
A single hook Tapco G2 should work in any other receiver except a NDS-3.
I have built 2 Romanian G Ak's on NDS-3 receivers and use Tapco G2 double hook triggers in both with no problems. I notch the trigger hole to looke like the picture above.
No need to grind on the FCG just figure out what receiver you have and replace the FCG with a new one.
Let me know if that clarifies things better.
The filters over here block certain websites. All I see is a red X here's the link for my pic above:
http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/large/singledoublehook.jpg0 -
Actually I had this happen with several AK's from Century.
The problem is there are burrs on the hammer, and disconnector, and the disconnector is not letting the hammer drop to the sear, when the trigger is released.
The simple fix is to take the trigger, sear and hammer out, and de-burr them with a honing stone...nothing else but de-burr. It will even reduce some of the trigger slap.
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A double hook trigger is only good if the FCG pin holes are exact and straight other wise with misaligned loose or filed back holes (most seem loose for assembly ease however TGI's seem very tight)the cocking of the double hook along with the pull of a trigger finger will most likely move the trigger about the hammer reverse half circles in a nonuniform way seeming to cause one side's hook to move off sooner than the other. The FCG also has some play so that the pins shouldn't rotate with the hammer or trigger. Essentially they seem a gimmick as compared to the single hook. Most sheet metal receivers seem (no matter how good anyone believes they can make one) with the flexation(not a word) of the 1mm sheet prepunched out pin holes & bent, spot welded, heat treated with a hand torch in select areas can make a true or straight receiver to be able to see any double hook benifate. Unless it's a milled receiver. Stamped sheet seems to be more flexible than the milled. Cooling faster doesn't mean much at all when it's cheaper & faster to produce. This is why I ask how is a double hook better. It defies common logic. If the FCG pins walk out it shouldn't matter if the pins are long enough to over extend the right side of the receiver & left side is X & Y stamped deep enough. From what I see it's short stroking the trigger before the bolt carrier clears the hammer & locks the receiver. If fully cycled no problem. I think more pressure on the disconnector may aid possibly a stronger recoil spring. The FCG is clean of dings or burrs. Receiver is thickly painted all I can see is the serial# and that it came from Century. I don't mean to be a pest. However I believe my question still is unanswered. 0 -
Try a different FCG. 0 -
New recoil spring installed. Advanced disconnector spring tension and brought it more forward. Disconnector will hold the hammer up untill bolt carrier impact from a fed round this causes the hammer to fall on to the hook to ready the shot. New recoil spring increase the carrier impact energy. Most likely after 300 rounds the FCG will wear relevant to how this particular gun functions greatly wearing off the high stress areas providing smoother function. Once broken-in it'll be reliable. There are no other problems now it's fixed. If any other non-adjustable FCG clean without burrs I most likely would've wasted my money. It's unbelievable how simple AK's are. The next step will be to zero it in. Front sight all the way left so I'll find a spot on the rear sight blade to where the zeroed shot occurs and make a reference mark. Don't know why they come preslotted better not to have & make after zeroing in. May look weird but the front sight drum goes so far. Thank you all for your helpful comments and concerns. It's some thing to check on a unfamiliar gun prior to purchasing though. Thanks! 0
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