Question for reloaders....
Been tossing around the idea of getting my own reloading set-up. I have purchased a few manuals/books on the subject and think I have a decent grasp on the basic process. My question is this:
Once set-up, how much would I save (typically, average component cost) for something like basic 30-30 hunting loads? I know there are alot of variables here. Assume prices are around 15-16 a box for 30-30(cheapest I see around here). Would it be similar for more accurate .243 loads? Just trying to feel out how much time/money I should invest and the like. Thanks!
Once set-up, how much would I save (typically, average component cost) for something like basic 30-30 hunting loads? I know there are alot of variables here. Assume prices are around 15-16 a box for 30-30(cheapest I see around here). Would it be similar for more accurate .243 loads? Just trying to feel out how much time/money I should invest and the like. Thanks!
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You should be able to save at least half. I get a lot of grief for this answer because of the type bullet, etc. (someone will always state that the zippedy-do -da bullet would be more then the amount you stated)
The main benefit is that you can custom the ammo to your exact gun which should improve accuracy, and it's a great hobby.
Try to be very specific on questions in the "reloading" section, as this is a very specific hobby and you can't answer questions like "what's the best 30-30 load".
Start with a single stage press (kit is best). You will at least pay for that in very few rounds. If you really like reloading, it won't be the last press you buy, but you'll always use a single stage for something.
Welcome to a great hobby.0 -
Cost savings on reloading vary depending on just how cheap and easy it is to get factory ammo. For most popular rifle and pistol military and police calibers right now reloading is a great bargain due to high costs and low inventories of factory ammo. For common sporting calibers like .30-30 costs tend to be more stable and factory ammo generally more easy to obtain. Using just a single relaoded round as an example lets look at the basic costs: Since each brass case can be reloaded several times lets figure each case costs you a dime. A rifle primer currently runs three to four cents (in lots of 1000 primers) but lets call it a nickel along with another nickel for the powder. This makes a total of 20 cents before you add the bullet. A box of 50 typical 130gr .308 FMJ sporting bullets retails for around $25, which makes each bullet worth 25 cents. Add this to the previous 20 cents you have spent 45 cents on components. Naturally if you buy in bulk (large numbers of cases, thousands of primers, several kegs of powder and large quantities of bullets) prices fall off due to the volume of scale. Even a single reloaded round runs about half the cost of a factory round of ammo and if you restrict your reloading to a rainy day activity there is no real labor costs since on miserable days like that reloading is actually a form of entertainment! 0 -
Typically before the current panic/shortage hit, primers cost between $25 and $30 per thousand and Powder around $22 a pound.
You really can't include the cost of equipment, dies, presses, etc since you can't amortize it out over any meaningful number of rounds loaded. And, you would probably find the resale or salvage value will be close to what you bought it for originally.
Secondly, I always use once fired factory brass, I do not buy new unprimed brass and do not include the cost of the brass in the financial calculations. If you do, I would figure an average of loading each round 15 times before it shows signs of wear. Some calibers will be half that, some will be double.
Assuming a 40 grain powder load, that would be 175 rounds per pound or about 12-1/2 cents apiece. Another 3 cents for the primer and you are around 15 cents per cartridge.
Now comes a big variable. Bullets. Are you gonna buy premium, cheap, bulk, or cast your own ? I cast my own using lead that I scavange from the range and use them in plinking bullets so the only bullets I buy are hunting rounds or specific target rounds. Thus, my plinking loads cost around 15 cents each but hunting rounds are gonna go up depending on the bullet cost.
Assume $20/100 for your bullet and you are looking at 35 cents a round total. That's gonna run you $3.00 a box for plinking loads (if you cast your own) or $7.00 a box for hunting rounds.
Obviously, the costlier the bullet, the more expensive it gets. But, I shoot a lot of 500 S&W and cast my own 440 grain bullets. The factory ammo runs me $54.00 a box of 20 ($2.70 a round) but I can shoot my own hand loads just as accurately at a cost of 11 cents a round.
Better ammo too, tailored to my gun and my needs.
Dan R0 -
Yes, you can save a little, even on common rounds like 9mm, 30-30, etc. I enjoy making (and in a pinch, being ABLE to make) my own ammo. But there is a Winchester 71 back in the safe- and if you price out a box of .348 Winchester, it just justified reloading right there!
I recycle most brass- rarely buy new. With reasonable loads it usually gets lost in the grass before it wears out.
If you know the price of a pound of powder, charge weight you are using, price of primers, and price of bullets, this will help you figure costs. If you are paying shipping, etc, needs to be factored in. Does not include your TIME- but as a hobby, it should not be included (IMHO)
http://www.10xshooters.com/calculators/Rifle_Reloading_Cost_Calculator.htm0 -
It's well worth it. For something like 30/30 you should be able to find brass for free at your local range, or buy very cheaply on gb. Nothing wrong with range pickup IF you know what to look for- you would need to resize the case of course, and trim to length; finally look for a shiny band around the base of the case to see if this might have been someone's reloads and reloaded a lot- leading to incipent case head seperation. When seating primers make sure the primer seats properly and isn't loose. If all of the above checks out, it doesn't really matter if the case is once, twice, or ten times fired, it's still good to go. Or save the brass you've already shot on your hunting trips, range time, etc. and you won't have to buy any.
As others have said, the cost of components is easily calculated. My own take would be that you don't need any fancy barnes X bullets or ultra super turbo bonded thingamabobs for anything you might shoot with a 30/30; regular Remington or Hornady soft points should do just fine. So bullets in the $20-$25/100 range should do just fine.0 -
In my limited experience (reloading 12ga for a few years when I was in high school) you won't save any money, but you will shoot more... 0 -
cwinn,
It's all expenditure. But, if you do shoot a fair amount, therefore expend, you will save money by reloading. Right now, an average box of shells runs around $20. Average about a buck a shell. Some less, most more. But for easy math lets figure it that way. A box of 100 bullets can be purchased for $25 or .$25 per bullet. Powder runs about $25 a pound and if you use 50 gr. it runs about $.17 per round Primers, run about $.03-.04 ea. right now. So that's $.47 a round instead of a dollar a round. Premium ammo runs well over $30 a box which is a buck and a half. Premium bullets may run you $.50 each which would bring a loaded round to $.67...instead of a buck and a half...or more.
That is a substantial savings by reloading as I see it. A box a week saves you over $10. Within a year you've paid for your reloading equipment. And gained yourself a hobby. Not to mention your other hobby of shooting has improved dramatically. The numbers were smaller way back when, but this is why our fathers and uncles and older friends got into reloading. Saving money and building a more accurate round.0 -
Thanks everybody! You guys more than answered my questions. I figure the 30-30 gets quite a few rounds through it and it would be a reasonably easy caliber to begin with. Again I really appreciate everyones advice and time calculating costs! 0
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