S&W 38 Pics: UPDATED photo's added
This was inherited, what do I have here. I hope the photo's are decent, these are the first serious gun pics I've taken.
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Model 10, or possibly a Military & Police. We need to see the markings on the frame visible only when the cylinder is open, plus the serial number might help.
Neal
EDIT: OK, now we're cooking. The Model 10-5 was made only in 1962, & yours appears to be a standard version. I would expect it to have diamond grips (that is, the checkering around the screw escutcheons in the shap of a diamond). You might want to take the grips off & see if the SN is stamped on the back, but my guess is that the grips are replacements.0 -
Pictures are good.
Nmyers is probably right. . .likely a Smith and Wesson Model 10 (or the earlier version of the same).
Open up the cylinder and look at (or photograph) what's written/inscribed on the frame inside where the front of the cylinder opens up. That should help.
Also, while one of your pictures show the numbers "38" on the right side of the barrel, the rest of the barrel there isn't visible. Does it say ".38 S&W" or ".38 S&W Special" or something else?
EDIT: So you've answered the question. You have a Smith and Wesson model 10-5 revolver in .38 special. This is one of the most popular handgun models in the world, with the model being in continuous production (with a series of modern updates over the years) since the end of the 19th century. The other answers provided are good, and there isn't much more for me to say.0 -
Here we go. I looked it over really well, at least I thought I did. However, not really being a revolver person, I can give myself a pass. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by beantownshootah
Pictures are good.
Nmyers is probably right. . .likely a Smith and Wesson Model 10 (or the earlier version of the same).
Open up the cylinder and look at (or photograph) what's written/inscribed on the frame inside where the front of the cylinder opens up. That should help.
Also, while one of your pictures show the numbers "38" on the right side of the barrel, the rest of the barrel there isn't visible. Does it say ".38 S&W" or ".38 S&W Special" or something else?
Took this one here on the couch.0 -
From the serial number it was made in the late 60's. Appears to have led a rough life from the amount of holster wear and marring of the finish. Don't recall ever seeing a S & W with that amount of blue wear on the ejector rod. Who ever owned it certainly did a lot of shooting/training with it. 0 -
Would be interesting to hear the stories of this well used piece. 0 -
Neat, honest gun. As long as it times OK, you're good to go.
The T-grip, well, lets just say I love 'em. When you put the T-grip back on, don't bend the tabs!
Best, Joe0 -
Yes, the grips came off of another gun. But, that's probably not important.
Since you say you aren't a revolver person, the procedure for checking timing bears repeating:
With the gun unloaded---
- Cock the hammer
- Hold the hammer fully back with your thumb while you pull the trigger AND HOLD IT FULLY REARWARD
- Ease the hammer fully forward, while you continue to hold the trigger fully rearward
- Wiggle the cylinder to check for tightness; if wiggle is excessive or the cylinder can be turned (or the gun shaves lead when fired), it needs a trip to the gunsmith
- Repeat the above procedure for all cylinder charge holes
Neal0 -
Another thing you may want to looking from the barrel end of the gun is how the frame and crane align. You do not want a gap. That would indicate a bent crane. 0
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