AR-15 ejects but doesn't load
My Bushmaster AR-15 suddenly stopped loading rounds. It ejects spent cases well but the bolt carrier doesn't seem to travel back far enough to chamber the next round. It does not stovepipe. The gun is well maintained and clean. I have used hand loads and commercial rounds all with the same result. I have checked, cleaned and lubricated the buffer and action spring. The last time it worked properly I was shooting blanks as opfor during a Robin Sage exercise. Can firing blanks do something to impact the guns performance?
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Some sort of leakage in the gas system.
Back to front:
First try firing a full magazine of full power ammo through the rifle to clear any possible gunk buildup from the blanks. DO NOT insert anything into the tube to clean it. If necessary spray a high pressure, strong solvent (GunScrubber, etc.) down the tube from rear to front, allowing it to flow down into the barrel.
Check the gas rings for wear - Disassemble the bolt carrrier group, then reinsert the bolt just enough for the rings to seat. Stand the carrier up on a flat surface with the bolt facing downward. It should not move further into the carrier by gravity alone. Don't worry with staggering the gaps of the rings - their possible alignment actually has no effect on functioning.
Check the gas key for tightness - While holding the carrier in one hand, apply a twisting motion to the key with the other. No movement should be felt/seen. Inspect the gas key bolts for proper staking (Bushmasters are notorious for poor staking).
Inspect the rear of the gas tube for misalignment - The end of the tube is flared slightly, but should be round. If not, it's bent slightly and the gas key has worn it unevenly. If so, the tube can be tweaked back into alignment.
Unlikely that it's your issue, but remove the handguards and inspect the length of the gas tube for cracks. Look for small, heavily blackened areas.
Inspect the area where the gas tube is inserted into the front sight base. A bit of blackening from leakage here is normal, but look for excessive marking.
Topkick - The blank firing adapter doesn't completely plug the muzzle. It has a hole that alloows a metered amount of gas to escape and redirects the rest into the gas system. Notice they come in different colors? That's because they're for different barrel/gas system lengths.0 -
I might be missing something but, dosen't firing blanks require a muzzle plug to get the gun to cycle the bolt. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Txs
Some sort of leakage in the gas system.
How would I check this?0 -
quote:Originally posted by Topkick
I might be missing something but, dosen't firing blanks require a muzzle plug to get the gun to cycle the bolt.
Yep. But obviously I take the blank adapter off before I fire live rounds.[:D]0 -
quote:Originally posted by jbmoose
quote:Originally posted by Topkick
I might be missing something but, dosen't firing blanks require a muzzle plug to get the gun to cycle the bolt.
Yep. But obviously I take the blank adapter off before I fire live rounds.[:D]
I believe you, but had to ask!
Can you clean the gas tube?
Most folks clean everything but the gas tube.
Sounds like it's plugged with gunk.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Topkick
quote:Originally posted by jbmoose
quote:Originally posted by Topkick
I might be missing something but, dosen't firing blanks require a muzzle plug to get the gun to cycle the bolt.
Yep. But obviously I take the blank adapter off before I fire live rounds.[:D]
I believe you, but had to ask!
Can you clean the gas tube?
Most folks clean everything but the gas tube.
Sounds like it's plugged with gunk.
No, I didn't clean that. Didn't even think of it. I also realigned the gas rings. I'll clean the tube and give it a try tomorrow. Thanks.[8D]0 -
I did not read all the posts, some of them! I had the same problem and it was carbon build up in the gas tube, I sprayed some brake cleaning fluid through it and solved the problem.
Emmett0 -
Best practice after shooting blanks is to clean everything twice. When we shot blanks in the M-14 it was required that we clean them three days in a row following. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by jbmoose
quote:Originally posted by Topkick
quote:Originally posted by jbmoose
quote:Originally posted by Topkick
I might be missing something but, dosen't firing blanks require a muzzle plug to get the gun to cycle the bolt.
Yep. But obviously I take the blank adapter off before I fire live rounds.[:D]
I believe you, but had to ask!
Can you clean the gas tube?
Most folks clean everything but the gas tube.
Sounds like it's plugged with gunk.
No, I didn't clean that. Didn't even think of it. I also realigned the gas rings. I'll clean the tube and give it a try tomorrow. Thanks.[8D]
That was always my biggest issue with that rifle. The fact that it craps in it's own guts. ...Even if it is the most accurate semi-auto battle rifle ever produced. This is the kind of reliability issue that drove me nuts when I carried an 'A1 back in the eighties. And the issue never got solved.
Anyhow, I used to run long pipe cleaners (Army issue) up the gas tube religiously. Every time I cleaned the rifle from blanks or live rounds. Live rounds aren't as bad, but the powder residue from blanks is like smearing dried sewer in your rifle. Remove it and drive on. I also used to spray WD-40 through the tube, via the little red spray tube, until it came out the barrel. Again, pipe cleaners as far up as you can go until clean. That was when we came in from the field and I knew the rifle would sit for a few days. I had to clean the oil/solvent residue when I drew it again. But, once I started doing that I never had the "eject, but wouldn't feed" problem again.0 -
My rifle was doing the same thing. I took the gas key off of the bolt carrier and took a punch and popped out a chunk of build up that actualy decreased the size of the gas hole from key to carrier by half. After that the rifle functioned fine.
I now have a gas piston system and I love it. The chamber stays cool and clean. It amazes me now how quick it is to clean the barrel.0
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