Iver Johnson revolver questions
Hi,
From what I can determine I have a Third Model Safety Automatic revolver judging by Mr. Goforths responses to others questions. It is a 38 S&W and the serial # is H37707. Approx. when was it made? Can I shoot factory smokeless 38 S&W cartridges? And lastly, I can only use it as double action .... Is this normal for this model or is something broken that I can't use it as a single action also? Thanks in advance for any input.
Paul
From what I can determine I have a Third Model Safety Automatic revolver judging by Mr. Goforths responses to others questions. It is a 38 S&W and the serial # is H37707. Approx. when was it made? Can I shoot factory smokeless 38 S&W cartridges? And lastly, I can only use it as double action .... Is this normal for this model or is something broken that I can't use it as a single action also? Thanks in advance for any input.
Paul
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It should stand cocked and shoot single action also. After first unloading the gun, here is a simple check you can make. Look at the small piece in the back of the trigger guard (it is the sear for full cock). Watch it and carefully cock the hammer. It should pop out a little as hammer notch reaches full. If it does not move, its little spring may be broken or the sear is stuck. You can try to 'help' it engage with your thumbnail (or maybe with a toothpick) and make it engage. If it engages and the hammer stands at full cock, the spring is the likely problem. If with all, it won't stand cocked, the problem is likely with the hammer notch or the sear itself. 0 -
hmc is spot on about the single action check for your revolver, and yes you can shoot factory .38 s&w ammo (note: not .38 s&w special ammo, a totaly different cartridge). 0 -
Thanks rhmc24 and Mike Wiskey for responding. Took the gun apart and found the hammer only has 1 notch. Looks like some shade tree nimrod took a file and ground off the second notch. I suspect the sear to be okay as spring is good and edge is crisp(no file marks). So now I need a good hammer I guess. Thanks to both of you for your input. I know the gun isn't worth much but it is to me. Was a relatives before passing. Thanks again.
Paul0 -
I have been able to repair some hammer notches. I cut into the notch area and solder in a piece of steel to replace the worn area. It can be a piece of spring steel, old saw blade, etc. I try to do the cut an eighth inch or more deep. I make the piece to be installed oversize and big enough to handle and solder it in with low-temp silver bearing solder. Then it is shaped to what it needs to be. Your problem may be finding exactly where the original notch was. If it is clear beforehand, mark it somehow so you can locate it after you solder in the new piece.
The solder I use has about 3% silver and is many times stronger than the usual soft solder. It solders at about the same temp as common 50-50 solder which will not affect the temper of your hard steel inset. Some of it comes as a wire with flux core or with separate flux bottle.0 -
Call the folks at gunpartscorp.com (aka Numrich) Think they have your revolver hammer for about $19.00 plus shipping. 0 -
Thanks again rhmc24 but that repair is waaay out of my league.[:(]
Thanks 11b6r, I saw that Numrich has the hammer(like $28 for my model) so I put a want ad on GB hoping for a better price on one. At least I know one can be had. Thanks again.
Paul0 -
It does take some doing but when you can't find a replacement
If you can get one as 11b6r suggests, it is the best way to go in any case. Rotsaruck!0
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