Winchester 1897 questions
I traded into this model 1897 takedown, 16 ga., full choke.
No finish left, (old) crack in the buttstock - this gun has been well used, but everything works.
Serial # 567XXX with an "E" over the serial on the receiver.
1. It is missing the locking pin for the magazine tube (part of the takedown feature) - in the Numrich catalog, it shows a Magazine Locking Pin (which I know I need) and then a Magazine Locking Pin Spring (I think I need this also??)
2. From the web, it looks like you just pull the magazine tube out from the receiver and then twist the barrell to take the gun apart. I have twisted as hard as I can with bare hands, and it won't turn and come apart. Is there some trick to this, or is it that the gun has not been apart in 50+ years?? (It is solid as a rock, so I probably don't want to take it apart anyhow - just curious.)
3. This gun has a VERY light trigger pull. I have banged the butt on the floor, and the sear does not slip, but I estimate the trigger pull at less than 2 pounds. Can a Smith do anything to stiffen up the pull without replacing the trigger or sear?? (Maybe just cleaning to get any oil or grease out of there?)
Thanks for any help.
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No finish left, (old) crack in the buttstock - this gun has been well used, but everything works.
Serial # 567XXX with an "E" over the serial on the receiver.
1. It is missing the locking pin for the magazine tube (part of the takedown feature) - in the Numrich catalog, it shows a Magazine Locking Pin (which I know I need) and then a Magazine Locking Pin Spring (I think I need this also??)
2. From the web, it looks like you just pull the magazine tube out from the receiver and then twist the barrell to take the gun apart. I have twisted as hard as I can with bare hands, and it won't turn and come apart. Is there some trick to this, or is it that the gun has not been apart in 50+ years?? (It is solid as a rock, so I probably don't want to take it apart anyhow - just curious.)
3. This gun has a VERY light trigger pull. I have banged the butt on the floor, and the sear does not slip, but I estimate the trigger pull at less than 2 pounds. Can a Smith do anything to stiffen up the pull without replacing the trigger or sear?? (Maybe just cleaning to get any oil or grease out of there?)
Thanks for any help.
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I've just received a winchester 1897 from my father, I believe that he purchased it sometime in the late 60's. Gun is 12GA take down, 20" CYL barrel, serial number shows only on the receiver as C159419. I have no doubt that this gun has been reblued as the finish is just too good, and the area in the receiver where the barrel and feed tube are inserted have a blued finish also. I figure the serial number on the barrel was polished off when reblued? I'll be requesting a factory letter, but wondering if folks thought the butt plate was original and what are the odds that this actually started it's life as a 20" barrel, any other thoughts or comments appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Tom W.
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You will need both the pin and pin locking spring. The locking spring keeps the pin from pulling out of the magazine tube. To separate the barrel/magazine tube assembly from the receiver you must first turn the magazine tube a quarter turn counter clockwise as viewed from the muzzle end. The locking pin is normally pushed from its position along side the barrel so it is protruding from the tube toward the 7 o'clock position as viewed from the muzzle end. The end of the pin is then used as a lever to turn the tube. The tube can then be pulled forward until the rear end of the tube is clear of the receiver. The complete barrel/magazine assembly can then be turned a quarter turn counter clockwise to release the interrupted threads on the barrel adjusting sleeve and pulled forward from the receiver. 0 -
Thanks for the answer on the spring - I'll get the parts ordered.
I think this gun has not been apart in so long that it is just frozen. I really don't want to put it in a vise or anything - so it will just stay together for now.0 -
I had similar 'frozen' situation that I figured was due to hardened grease after decades. I heated it around where the barrel joins the receiver and it came easily. Didn't take a lot of heat, maybe a little more than you could stand touching with bare hand. Certainly not as hot as a gun gets after firing several quick rounds. 0 -
I was going to ask about the chamber length and just forgot on my first post. There is no marking other than "16 Ga".
One source I found shows the manufacture date as 1913. Would that mean a 2 9/16" chamber? (Are those shell even available anywhere?)
Thank you for the replies so far!0 -
quote:Originally posted by 1fisher
I was going to ask about the chamber length and just forgot on my first post. There is no marking other than "16 Ga".
One source I found shows the manufacture date as 1913. Would that mean a 2 9/16" chamber? (Are those shell even available anywhere?)
Thank you for the replies so far!
Yes, an unmarked Model 1897 16 gauge will always have a 2-9/16" chamber. Those that were factory made with the 2-3/4" chamber were marked as such (Winchester made the change circa 1931).0 -
That old shotgun appears to have a raised rib. That is pretty rare isn't it? 0 -
Yes Sir, that must be a glare, nothing like it in the top photo. 0 -
You have to move the forearm forward also before you cad twist the barrel assy. 0
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