Ruger single six Loading problem
I have onr that is not letting the round go all the way into the cylinder wich is in tern not letting it cycle? I have cleaned it a bunch still not helping. Any advice?
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sounds like lead/wax build up remove cylinder and clean 0 -
From your description, it might have been burred up by two much dry firing. Take the cylinder out of the revolver, after marking which specific chamber is the one causing problems. With a very fine Swiss needle file, VERY CAREFULLY remove the displaced metal causing the burr. Remove only a absolute minimum amount, to much removed might cause ignition problems. 0 -
Just one chamber, or all 6? I'm assuming you aren't trying to load .22 Mags in the L.R. cylinder, yes? Just a guess, but could be that it was shot a bunch with .22 Shorts and has more foulings than even a good cleaning has taken care of? Looking through each chamber to a strong light on the other side should let you know if that's the problem. Unlikely, but peening at the end of the chamber from dry firing and or a misaligned cylinder might do that too. If it is fouling you might try taking an emply shell and flaring the mouth ever so slightly and the pounding it in with non marring mallet. That should take care of any heavy build ups, then clean again with a brass brush and good solvent.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.0 -
I had somthing very similiar. My SS New Model Had very fine burrs apparantly from the final maching of the cylinder face. I removed the cylinder and very carefully used a RCBS burring tool to clean each opening in the cylinder and the problem was solved.
If the gun has been fired a lot cleaning is likely the solution.0 -
IF there is a problem caused by dry firing, and having burred the chamber's edge, rather than remove metal with a file, it may be better to "iron" the metal back to where it was. Brownell's sells a tool to do this, but a Stanley nailset does almost as well. Insert the tapered nailset into chamber, tap gently, rotate, tap, etc. In some severe cases, while nailset is still in place, you may need to use a small flat tip punch to work the moved-over burr down.
I mention this because filing or reaming a burr means that the metal is gone forever- and as Rufe said, may cause ignition problems. Just put it back where it belongs.
Back to original posting- would make sure I have right caliber ammo for the weapon (yes, I have tried to push 22 magnums into a 22 LR. DUH!) chambers are REALLY clean, etc.0 -
How aggressive is your cleaning?
After patches with solvent, try a brass brush. Next step would be J-B Bore Paste.
Neal0 -
Once you decide what the problem is you may need to look at correcting the cause as well. If the timing is off and contributing to the problem you want have that fixed before firing it any more, even if rounds will chamber smoothly. 0 -
Thanks for all the info. I sure like this as a tool so a guy dosent have to a gunsmith for the little things. I odered a iron from Midway looks like its been dry fired to much and there is some little burrs on two cylinders. Once again Thanks Nate 0
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