S&W mod. 53 22 jet
i was recently given a 22 jet. it has the 22lr inserts.iwas also given several boxes of 22 jet ammo that i would like to use. the problem is that the 22lr inserts have been in place for 20+yrs. ???? how do i remove the inserts without doing damage to the inserts or the cylinder. i have tried kind and gentle without sucess. can anyone give me some help? thanks in advance.
Z
Z
0
-
Congratulations on getting the S&W .22 jet. That model has almost a cult following. Loud and lots of flash! I am going to assume the cylinder is a blued finish as I have never seen a nickel finish on one of these. I think I would remove the cylinder and place the entire cylinder in a solution of 50-50 kerosene and Kroil. Tapping the cylinder with a wood dowel may help. If that fails, throw the cylinder and inserts in the freezer overnight and try heating the cylinder in selected spots with a quality forced air heat gun. I don't think it will hurt the finish. When you get the inserts removed, you may want to check on having S&W fit a .22 LR cylinder for your revolver.
I knew the cylinder was different than a model 17 or 18 but did not know they were rarer than hen's teeth and out of production. While the model 23 maybe a collector's dream, it's not one of the more practical handguns ever made.
Good luck0 -
I would use a 30/35 cal brass bore brush, (You want a tight fit) put it as far as you can into the insert, after soaking the cylinder with a solvent such as WD 40 or kroil or liquid Wrench. Tap on the end of the bore brush with a 3/16 brass drift punch. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Robin
Congratulations on getting the S&W .22 jet. That model has almost a cult following. Loud and lots of flash! I am going to assume the cylinder is a blued finish as I have never seen a nickel finish on one of these. I think I would remove the cylinder and place the entire cylinder in a solution of 50-50 kerosene and Kroil. Tapping the cylinder with a wood dowel may help. If that fails, throw the cylinder and inserts in the freezer overnight and try heating the cylinder in selected spots with a quality forced air heat gun. I don't think it will hurt the finish. When you get the inserts removed, you may want to check on having S&W fit a .22 LR cylinder for your revolver.
Good luck
Nope. Been there. S&W made the '53 with .357 magnum length cylinders. Longer than the .22's. The special order .22LR cylinder that was available for the '53 is a unique item. Very rare. Out of production for years.
I went to S&W personally, and pleaded (pled?) my case. They won't take a M-19 cylinder blank and ream to .22LR. Still looking. Best, Joe0 -
I have been looking for 22 or 22mag cyl. for over 10 years.Numrich hast the inserts but they dont fit very well.I also have 4 rifles in 22 jet also[:D].tks.hedge 0 -
I have a Smith 53. It came in the original box with inserts and extra .22LR cylinder. Its a 6" blued gun. A 4" nickel model 53 sold here on GB about a year ago.
I have shot mine using Jet ammo and its extremely hard to extract the empties. I have not yet shot it using the LR cylinder.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]0 -
quote:Originally posted by Laredo Lefty
I have a Smith 53. It came in the original box with inserts and extra .22LR cylinder. Its a 6" blued gun. A 4" nickel model 53 sold here on GB about a year ago.
I have shot mine using Jet ammo and its extremely hard to extract the empties. I have not yet shot it using the LR cylinder.
Orig. info said that any lube on the cyl/case can cause problems. I had difficult ejection also..so I left the line, went to the trunk of my car, and brought back a spray can of starter fluid. Sprayed the back of the cylinder. Worked like a charm. Spray cyl. with a spray gun oil before packing it for the trip home to protect the metal.
Oh, don't do it [spray ether] in an indoor range. Heh. <--dumbass experience speaking. Best, Joe0 -
Joe.............. Thanks, I will try the starter fluid method next time I take it out. 0 -
Joe, Lefty, Et-all,
De-greasing prior to shooting is a good idea, especially with a radically tapered case such as the 22 Jet. (also the 22 Hornet AKA Raging Hornet). I have two M53's & a T/C in Jet. I use alcohol solvent to wipe the chambers plus the cases. It is just as important to remove any sizing lube from the brass as it is to clean & dry the chambers.
BE AWARE, many solvents will remove the finish if you let it contact the grips. Safety for the finish along with a low toxic level is why I use alcohol.
Jim0 -
thanks for all the info. lots of good stuff,but very little answers to my question. i have tried the suggestions and still have the problem. any more help out there????????? Z 0 -
quote:Originally posted by zorito
thanks for all the info. lots of good stuff,but very little answers to my question. i have tried the suggestions and still have the problem. any more help out there????????? Z
f you weren't able to get the inserts out with the bore brush/punch method? My WAG is that they have been epoxied in place. Remove the cylinder from the revolver and stick the cylinder in the freezer for a couple of days. Epoxy degrades and looses it holding power when frozen. After a couple of days, retry the bore brush/brass punch method. Hope for the best.0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
10 comments