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Casting with wheel weights

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5 comments

  • perry shooter
    I personally think wheel weights will be hard enough but if you must add tin get some 50%/50% soder.
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  • 11b6r
    Agree with Perry. If you get solder, be certain it is LEAD/TIN solder. Many of the newer plumbing solders are lead free (bismuth, I think) When melting wheelweights, flux with a bit of wax. Stir to get the tin back into the melt- tends to float to the top.
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  • MIKE WISKEY
    wheel weights are mostly lead/antimony (87/13% if I remember correctly), they cast better if you add 5/10% tin (comes out close to lynotype)
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  • MIKE WISKEY
    wheel weights are mostly lead/antimony (87/13% if I remember correctly), they cast better if you add 5/10% tin (comes out close to lynotype)
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  • bpost
    quote:Originally posted by dreher
    I have got 50+ lbs of wheel weights. I will soon be reducing the wheel weights to 1 lb. ingots. After I have my 1 lb. ingots, I am planning on remelting and adding both tin and antimony, repouring ingots, getting ready to cast 45/70 bullets. I want these bullets to be very hard. The type that go right thru both shoulders, Mulies or elk. What would your recommendations be on the amounts of antimony and tin to get the hardness I desire? Where is the best place to acquire antimonty and tin? Best, defined as cheapest. Thanks all.


    If you water quench wheel weights you will increase the hardness by about 30%. Wheel weights cast as is are going right through both sides of a old water pressure tank at 165 yards in my 30-06 and 8MM Mauser. The bullet, if too hard could just shatter on a bone.
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