stock finish
Just received a new Charles Daly o/u shot gun and really don't like the glossy Wlanut stock and forearm. Is there any way that the gloss could be removed to produce a dull finish? any suggestions? Thanks .
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I have finished and refinished many stocks over the years, using many different products from oils to poly's,in both water base and oil type.
I know you guy's must have been asked this question before, but I like the high gloss found on some Brownings, Remingtons and others and never seemed to be able to duplicate it for hardness or I should say its ability to resist denting and scratches fom routine take down and assembley, etc.
Anybody have a suggestion? I'm think'n maybe try an automotive clear coat polymer because I havent been able to dupllicate any MFG's finish. Its takes alot of time to refinish a whole stock set just to clean up some scratch's and have it look good, not even considering what refinishing does to the value...Any thoughts????
Learn from the mistakes of others, for you won't live long enough to make them all yourself....0 -
here is a pic I just took I do not think there is anything but stain on it [img][/img] 
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Lots of ways to finish it, from hand rubbed oils, to spray on finishes.. the choice is yours..
If you like em shiny, clear coat it......... if not, then rub it out to a matte or satin finish...
Remember to tape off the checkering........0 -
I would wipe it with Minn Wax Wipe-On Poly, then sand it with 400 between coats. About 3-4 coats will give a beautiful finish that looks like hand rubbed oil finishes. Mask off the checkering so you don't sand it, then coat it with just the last coat of finish.
This is a WOP finish (satin) on my Rolling Block stocks:0 -
I like Birchwood Casey Tru-oil because its inexpensive, readily available, easy to use, and gives good results with a "classic" appearance. Its also pretty easy to touch up, if scratched, etc.
For what its worth, "Tru-oil" is a proprietary mixture of linseed and other oils. You can rub it on by hand (or using a soft cloth).
But there are many other choices that can work.0 -
invisabill58,
The first thing I would do is make absolutely sure that the original finish is gone because it doesn't look like it is, although I can't be positive. It the finish is off then that walnut stain is really deep and dark. I would get some Citristrip and give it a good once-over to be sure that you have all of the contaminants out of the wood. The checkering can be cleaned gently with a soft toothbrush.
I was taught the Phil Pilkington method of stock finishing but there are other variations that will work equally well. Sand the stock, get it as smooth as you want it. Some folks stop at 320, others continue to 600-800 grit. Whisker the stock and get the finish of your choice ready along with the sandpaper and paper towels.
You can use boiled linseed oil, Lin-Speed, Tru-Oil or any of the over the counter stuff available to you locally. I would stay away from the Pilkington's finish that Brownells sells due to the exorbitant price. Other, less expensive oils work fine.
Steve Billib
I have recommended tung oil in the past because of the wear factor and the degree of waterproofing. The instructions are the same with the proviso that you need to know if you're allergic to nuts.
Tung oil is made from the pressed seed from the nut of the tung tree. Tung oil is considered a drying oil much as linseed, safflower, poppy and soybean oil. When applied, it provides a tough, highly water-resistant finish, which does not darken noticeably with age as does linseed oil. This is not to say that it is a colorless finish; it still has a slight golden tint.
Tung oil is also sometimes called "China wood oil". It has been used for hundreds if not thousands of years in China to seal decorative and marine wood as well as porous masonry.
As the source of tung oil is a nut, people with nut allergies often report adverse reactions to contact with (or even the odor of) tung oil. Reactions can be severe in some cases. While tung oil has been used for many centuries as a finish for kitchen items such as wooden bowls and cutting boards, some individuals must avoid its use.
There are also acrylic or epoxy finishes that are often referred to a those 'plastic' finishes. They can look like a mirror and are fine until you scratch that surface because repairing it is no fun.
You can get the Pilkington instructions from Brownells or you might find them on the internet. There are a bunch of decent articles on the internet if you do a search. Brownells also has some article about refinishing stocks in the Gun-Tech section.
Best.0
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