question on plus P ammo
can i run plus p in any modern 38? I mean will the pressures really blow the gun up or cause stress cracks barrel seperation?
what about a standard .45 colt or kimber 1911
if I hand load for my .45's what is the hottest load I can use with 185 gr JHP what powder?
I want to start reloading especially for my bigger revolvers and My 10 mm's and the plus p ammo for a .45 auto seems interesting I would like to get some muzzle velocity/longer range...so I am basically new to reloading, I did it one shell at a time for my 41 mag using 17 grains of blue dot behind a 210 grain speer JHP
the 44 mags I shoot are Colt anaconda with a 4 inch barrel, 629-1 smith with a 3 inch barrel and and 29-5 smith with a 6 inch barrel
the 10mm are delta elites one blue one stainless both 5 inch. they are both early production and I have heard some of those guns had problems even with factory loads?
the 45 I want to shoot is a kimber pro BP10 polymer frame stainless slide and I have no experience with them at all I haven't even fired this one yet.
what about a standard .45 colt or kimber 1911
if I hand load for my .45's what is the hottest load I can use with 185 gr JHP what powder?
I want to start reloading especially for my bigger revolvers and My 10 mm's and the plus p ammo for a .45 auto seems interesting I would like to get some muzzle velocity/longer range...so I am basically new to reloading, I did it one shell at a time for my 41 mag using 17 grains of blue dot behind a 210 grain speer JHP
the 44 mags I shoot are Colt anaconda with a 4 inch barrel, 629-1 smith with a 3 inch barrel and and 29-5 smith with a 6 inch barrel
the 10mm are delta elites one blue one stainless both 5 inch. they are both early production and I have heard some of those guns had problems even with factory loads?
the 45 I want to shoot is a kimber pro BP10 polymer frame stainless slide and I have no experience with them at all I haven't even fired this one yet.
0
-
My opinion? Others will have others.
A modern day handgun will shoot any FACTORY load you buy. However, lighter frame guns will wear at an increased rate if you feed it HOT loads. Frames stretch, lockup starts to get sloppy, etc. Will it blow up the first shot? Not likely- ammo makers would be bankrupt from the lawsuits. But a S&W Mdl 36 that is fed an extensive diet of +p (or +P+) loads will need to see a smith for fixing sooner than one that does not. A S&W Outdoorsman would sneer at the same loads- heavier gun.
As far as max loads for handloading, beware of being given a pet load data from anybody. Load data for just about any powder is on the maker's website, or from any good loading manual. Always start with the lower range of loads, and work UP towards the max load listed, checking brass and primers for signs/symptoms that you need to back off. When you change ANY component- brass, powder, bullet, or primer- start over again and work up.0 -
I agree with 11b6r. I have a S&W Model 36 that is 35 years old, and I keep it loaded with +P ammo. I very rarely fire the +P due to the stress, and a waste of money.I like to end my shooting with a cylinder of +P's, just to keep the feel for the round.
The powder companies will give you a ton of info on powder data. As they ALL say,"never exceed max loads!"0 -
Another tip, guy a heavier recoil spring for you semi-auto's. For your 1911, you probably want an 18.5lb spring, and a buffer at least, maybe a 20lb or 22lb if it doesn't cause your gun to malfunction with the loads. 0 -
I equate Firearms to any other mechanical pieces of equipment . Think of fire arms as the same as a tachometer on a car "I like High Performance cars . If the red line on my car is 7900 RPM and I use the gas pedal to increase the engine speed to 7900 RPM each and every time before I shift gears I would not expect the car to BLOW UP but I also would nor expect it to last 200,000 miles trouble free however if I normally shifted gears at say 6000 rpm and only used the 7900 red line occasionally then I would expect the engine to last much longer . If I wanted to drive 200 MPH I would buy a car designed for it not a 150 mph car and soup it up with aftermarket parts to run 200 mph. If you want more then a 38 special then buy a 357 mag if you want more then a 44 mag then but a 500 S&W if you want more then a 458 WIN may then buy a 460 Weatherby Mag if you want more then the 460 Weatherby then buy a 50 BMG. Don't try to soup up a 22 short to make it into a 50 BMG or sooner or later you will get a kaboom [:(!][V]. Your mileage may vary and everyone is entitled to there opinion .
EDIT. don't be afraid to load for semi auto pistols. What I was trying to allude to with my Car analogy was the fact you can load and practice with lower power loads for lest cost and less wear and tear on both the pistol and shooter . Become a MUCH better shot and save the heavy stuff for hunting or social work0 -
The owners manual will tell you what the manufacturer thinks you can use. If it does not say +p then don't. If you shoot +p expect increased wear and a shorter life for your firearm. Some of my defense rounds are +p. None of my practice rounds are. 0 -
thats good advise guys and I like your analogy perry. my 686 would shoot whatever as would the trooper and king cobra the model 36 is a collector anyway I don't carry it and have never even fired it.
the 45's I guess is the biggest consideration I will have to look up the specs for the kimbers, for some reason I don't care about modifying them as I would my colts.0 -
I would not exceed factory loads in the Colt revolvers. In fact I'd reduce loads in these guns. From recent reading, Anaconda's and Pythons
loosen up from a lot of magnum load shooting. A charge of 20 grains of 2400 behind a 235 grain GCHP makes for a much more pleasant 44 Mag load that still has plenty of steam. The Smiths will probably stand up longer with published hotter loads.
From what you've heard, Delta Elites may have trouble with factory loads,so why try and +P them?0 -
yeah the 10mm is fast enough already, i just need to find a good deal on some bulk ammo for it and then buy the dies, get set up to handload thse as well...never have handloaded for an automatic, Im kinda worried about it. 0 -
There seems to be two mainstream commercial production types of 10mm. There is a low power equivalent that mirrors the .40sw, and then there is the full power load, not plus p, just full power that pushes a 175gr projectile 1200fps with about 600ft lbs. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by scottm21166
10mm are delta elites one blue one stainless both 5 inch. they are both early production and I have heard some of those guns had problems even with factory loads?
The early 10mm Delta's had problems mostly because people didn't change springs often enough and it ended up battering/cracking the frames. Colt later modified the frame to prolong their life. If you change your recoil spring every 1000 rounds you shouldn't have a problem with shooting full powered rounds. If you shoot the downloaded 10mm ammo you can extend the spring changes to 2000 rounds. I have seen 3 early Delta 10's with 11K, 17K and 32K rounds through them and no major problems, but the owners were aware of the issues and changed the springs regularly.0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
10 comments