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Kroil

Emmett Dunham
I just did a serach to see what kind of info there was on this oil and did not get the answer I needed. I just finished putting a older weapon together and I have some very light pitting on the rifle I would like to get ride of. The rife has about eight percent finish, will the oil desolve the rust with out damage to the patenia or blueing.
I tryed 00 steel wool and oil and it did not do much for the pitting!


Emmett
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Comments

11 comments

Date Votes
  • Emmett Dunham
    Kroil is often recommended in this form for removing rust freckles on guns. ALERT: If you google Kroil you will find a special google only offer on two king size cans of Kroil for $12.00 shipping included.
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  • cpermd
    You will not get rid of the pitting with anything.

    CP
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  • TooBig
    Kroil will just lift the rust and as stated above noting will take the pits out sorry.[xx(]
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  • perry shooter
    Kroil is great stuff do not use steel wool but rather a BRASS pot scrubber or brass brush. It will not hurt the finish.
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  • Emmett Dunham
    I read that it desolves the rust, I think they are talking about in the threads it penetrates! The rifle looks good the way it is and I am happy with it! Thanks, you for your replys


    Emmett
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  • IDRACCA
    quote:Originally posted by Emmett Dunham
    I just did a serach to see what kind of info there was on this oil and did not get the answer I needed. I just finished putting a older weapon together and I have some very light pitting on the rifle I would like to get ride of. The rife has about eight percent finish, will the oil desolve the rust with out damage to the patenia or blueing.
    I tryed 00 steel wool and oil and it did not do much for the pitting!


    Emmett
    Kroil is a very excellent product. It is a creeping penetrating oil. It is way more effective that things like "liquid Wrench". When you leave Kroil on a rusted screw that is frozen tight with rust or a bolt and nut etc. it will penetrate and help to break them free. It will not harm bluing. It is used by match shooters to clean the bore of their firearms. Being a solvent it breaks down carbon and fouling in a bore very effectively. Can be left in bore over night for a more thorough cleaning. Get some you will definitely like it. It will help clean up the rust in the pits and will keep it from getting worse. However to get "pitting" out you will have to polish it out with an abrasive compound or emery cloth and a lot of elbow grease. This will remove the bluing but if you want to totally get rid of pitting you will have to do this. You can then use some good cold blue like Dicropan T-4 creme, Oxpho-Blue Creme, 44/40, or Blue Wonder Cold Blue Kit. These will all do a pretty nice job. The other alternative is send it out to be re-blued with a hot bluing process but I would try these cold blues first as they can give you a very acceptable finish.
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  • He Dog
    Kroil with 0000 brass wool and then Otis dry lube followed by Trewax. Nothing will eliminate the pits (that you are likely to be able to do at home, or unless you wish to invest a fortune, in which case see Airdale's post below[;)]), nothing will stop the rust, but Kroil will remove the existing rust and the wax will slow its return Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay down.
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  • Colt Super
    Today I spoke with an ancient Gentleman who has been shooting for SEVENTY years, and he told me that the most effective way to remove heavy surface rust was to get an old pure copper penny, or solid core copper wire, or a solid copper battery cable,; and put Hoppe's 9 and rub it into a "slurry" on the surface to be cleaned.

    According to this elderly Gentleman, if you do a small patch at a time, the rust will disappear, leaving the underlying blue untouched.

    I asked him about using brass, and he said it would do, but you have to work a lot harder.

    Doug
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  • USN_Airdale
    Nothing will eliminate the pits

    WRONG !!

    a very skilled welder with the proper equipment can fill the pits, then you can file them smooth, i once had an OLD 1911 slide that had been used during the era of corrosive primers, my ol Navy buddy who was an excellent welder touched up the pits, i cleaned up the weld spots with a file, emery cloth and cloth buffing wheel, i then took it to a gunsmith friend who done hot bluing, today after 35+ years you can not tell if it was new or patched over.

    unless you have a lot of friends who have various skills this procedure could end up being very expensive !![:D]
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  • He Dog
    quote:if you do a small patch at a time, the rust will disappear, leaving the underlying blue untouched.

    Sorry Doug, unless it is very light and very early, the rust eats through the blue, so there is none under the rust to reveal. Remember that bluing is itself a process of controlled oxidation.
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  • airmung
    Kroil is fantastic as a penetrant. One of their tech reps said that they had to redesign the caps on the bottles because the stuff would creep right out past the caps.
    We use it for decoking aircraft turbocharger oil seals and for penetrating the carbon on sticky waste gate shafts. Also, it will creep into the tightest crevice there is. It will soak into rust and loosen it, although it won't dissolve or chemically convert the rust.
    Kroil or fine light machine oil and very fine (OOOO) steel wool used carefully will remove the rust pit "bloom" and so the pitting will not show nearly as much. Wax will then help protect the area from the recurrence of rust. Before you use cold blue or do any polishing, see if it will affect the value of the gun (if that matters to you). Any alteration to the gun's finish can greatly affect value if your older firearm could have any collector value at all.
    The only real ways to remove pitting is to polish the whole thing down to solid metal and polish and refinish, or to weld up the areas, heat-treat if required, then polish and refinish.
    Best of luck!
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