Smith & Wesson model 1917
I am new hear so thanks for any help you can give me. I have been looking at all the online gun sites and I am interested in purchasing a Smith and Wesson Model 1917. I dont know much about these except what I have read and I am looking for some guidence on what to look for. I have looked at some of the army issue pistols and a commercial grade pistol made in 1935. They seem to in the $800 to $1200 range for pistols that are 80% to 98%. I would prefer to get one in good condition rather than poor. I wont shoot it much but I dont want a gun that I can not shoot. Were the commercial pistols a higher quality and better fit? What is more desirable??? Im just not sure what I should be looking for?
Thanks again!
Bo
Thanks again!
Bo
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I inherited my grandfather's S&W model 1917. It was issued to him during or slightly after WW1. It was in an ammo box with the original holster, ammo pouches, ammo, half-moon clips, and cleaning rod. It has his initials stamped in the side near the cylinder release.
I gave it a quick cleaning, bought some new ammo, went to the range, and shot it. It shoots quite nicely.
Since it is so old and sat for so long, I'm thinking it needs a very good cleaning.
Dare I take the side plate off to clean the internals (I've never done this before)? Or, should I take it to a gunsmith? I have a bad vision of springs, cogs, and who knows what, shooting out from under the side plate!
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Have an expert walk you through the cleaning and disassembly and see how he or she removes the screws. You have to select the proper screw driver that fits the screw and when they're replaced you never want to see a mark on the head or slot where it's been buggered. (?) 0 -
If it were mine, I'd just spray the openings in the frame with CLP Breakfree, blow it out with compressed air, then oil it.
I Shute is right; if you don't have a set of GUNSMITH screwdrivers & know how to use them, you will ruin the screws. Plus, if you don't know how the right technique for removing the sideplate (smack the frame with a piece of wood in the right place), you will ruin the gun.
Neal0 -
I wouldn't take it apart. It obviously has been stored correctly over the years, and is in primo condition, for a 92 year old military handgun. From firing it you know it's functional, don't worry about the innards, you don't want to bugger up any of the screws or the side plate.
If only your Granddad didn't have the urge to put his initials on it, the revolver/holster and associated accessories would have had a 4 figure value to a collector. Don't feel bad I have seen a lot worse over the years, i.e. Social Security or Drivers License numbers put on with a electric pencil. Stuff like that, really would make you cry.0 -
If you decide that it is to be cleaned inside there are a couple of things you need to know other than how to disassemble and reassemble. The front screw on the right side of the frame in front of the cylinder holds the crane that holds the cylinder. That screw is specific to that hole. Keep it seperate. After taking all four sideplate screws out DO NOT PRY off the side plate. You take a brass or lead nonmarring hammer and tap lightly on the grip frame and the sideplate will pop up. The same applies in reassembly, do not force the sideplate back on. The top screw up near the hammer goes on first and there is a little tab on the sideplate that goes under the frame and it takes very little pressure to seat. Just in case you decide to do it yourself. 0 -
Aside from it having sat around for a while, is there anything from a functional point of view that encourages cleaning? If the cylinder doesn't turn easily or the trigger doesn't rebound smartly, the cylinder bolt does't move freely then perhaps a cleaning is required. But absent a real reason I'd say leave the sideplate on.
Taking apart and reassembling a Smith revolver isn't at all difficult and if you want to learn for the sake of learning, that's fine. But if it's a cleaning project only there should be a reason for the effort.
A small bottle of oil with a needle like nozzle will really get in there. So it seems that a good oiling might be the best approach for now.0 -
Shot with 'gramps bullets? better get it cleaned asap. It's probably corrosive ammo. Use military bore cleaner, if you can get ahold of some (comes in a 2oz metal can). Best, Joe 0 -
When I first handled it, it didn't want to shoot in the DA mode. The Hammer didn't come back far enough. A little oil in the hammer and trigger opening cured that.
I thank everyone for their input. It is appreciated. I don't want to damage the screws or needlessly risk messing something else up. So, I think I'll use generous amounts of solvent, blow it dry as nmyers suggested, and then do another liberal oiling. The, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it," axiom seems appropriate in this case.0 -
Givette
I shot it with new ammo!0 -
Make sure you take the grips off before hitting it with solvent and oil. 0 -
I wouldn't mess with it.
Just love it.
What a wonderful piece of your Family history.
I sure hope you have a Family member to pass it down to.
Doug0
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