DPMS LR-308AP4 Problem.............
I picked up my LR308-AP4 on 3/3 from my FFL. I love the rifle overall, but am having issues with it. I have called them already, and was told to use CLP on the bolt-carrier/upper area. While I have not fired it yet, I have loaded some rounds, and extracted, as well as worked the empty action.
I have had about 50% failure for the bolt carrier to fully close, and had to use the FA to finish the last 1/4" or so.
This has happened with rounds as well as empty, so it rules out a magazine, or ammo issue to me. BTW, I am slingshotting the carrier, not trying to feed slowly through the charging handle. I notice a smell when I do this, as well as feeling friction at a point when pulling back the charging handle. I assume this is metal to metal contact, and the smell is from the finish being burned off by friction.
Long story short, I wanted to lube up the carrier as was suggested, but I can't split this rifle to save my life!
The rear pin was very tight, and required a plastic punch, but now works smoothly.
I have even pulled both pins instead of just the rear takedown, and swiveling as is normal practice.
The upper and lower will move around a small degree, but even with significant force by hand I CANNOT separate the upper and lower. This is with the carrier and charging handle fully forward of course.
ANY ideas? I am totally stumped on this, and have never experienced such a thing before with an AR.
Doesn't appear to be any differences in takedown for the .308 versions to me.
Thanks for any suggestions.
I have had about 50% failure for the bolt carrier to fully close, and had to use the FA to finish the last 1/4" or so.
This has happened with rounds as well as empty, so it rules out a magazine, or ammo issue to me. BTW, I am slingshotting the carrier, not trying to feed slowly through the charging handle. I notice a smell when I do this, as well as feeling friction at a point when pulling back the charging handle. I assume this is metal to metal contact, and the smell is from the finish being burned off by friction.
Long story short, I wanted to lube up the carrier as was suggested, but I can't split this rifle to save my life!
The rear pin was very tight, and required a plastic punch, but now works smoothly.
I have even pulled both pins instead of just the rear takedown, and swiveling as is normal practice.
The upper and lower will move around a small degree, but even with significant force by hand I CANNOT separate the upper and lower. This is with the carrier and charging handle fully forward of course.
ANY ideas? I am totally stumped on this, and have never experienced such a thing before with an AR.
Doesn't appear to be any differences in takedown for the .308 versions to me.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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I just have 2 off the top of my head thoughts. I am hoping I read correctly what you are saying.
If I understand you are saying you pulled both pins and can not get the lower and upper to come apart. Sounds like a dumb one but make sure you bolt/carrier is fully forward in the locked position. Even if they are back just a little bit the upper and lower will not come apart.
If you are sure the carrier is all the way forward, and you can not see anything else binding it up you can try this. Put the front pin back in. With the rifle supported at the magazine well and having something to hold the rear of the gun down try using the forearm/barrel for leverage.
Wow, I am lost without seeing it (in person) then. I just know that if the carrier is even back just a tad bit the gun will not come apart. I just can not picture anything else that would be causing it to bind like that. I am sure anything is possible but I have a hard time believing that it was made that poorly and someone actually forced the parts together that hard.0 -
NWCID,......yes, the carrier, and charging handle are fully forward and locked.
I have tried it the usual way with just the rear pin, and I have tried it with both pulled. All it will do is start to separate about 1/8" or so.
I can't see through there enough to see anything binding it.
I have had tight pins, and carriers before, but I have NEVER not been able to split one open.0 -
Marc1301,
I just acquired a DPMS LR-308 stainless fluted about a month ago. I noticed that same smell you describe the first couple days before I fired it. I also had the tight takedown pin syndrome. Make sure the bolt carrier is all the way forward, as you have described, and the takedown pins will get easier over time...say about 20 openings.
I never had a problem with the bolt not going in all the way to battery. However, I did when I got the gun home for the first time, take the time to use gun blast cleaner, and clean out all the factory shipping stuff, and give it a shot of CLP. Actually I cleaned and prepped the whole gun, as when it left the factory it was prepped for storage, not shooting. These rifles are extremely well built, and tight from the factory. I did take the time to break my barrel in right, cleaning after every shot for the first twenty shots, then after every five shot group untill the 50th shot. I have yet to try handloads, but with the Federal GMM 178's it will hold at least 1/2 MOA, if I do my part.
If you have any more questions, feel free to e-mail me.
Best.0 -
Ok guys,......just got her broken open and know what the problem was.
The rear takedown pin trunnion projecting down from the upper had NO tolerance whatsoever.
I read on another forum of a similar situation, and followed that fellows advice. He said that his pin actually had a burr on it too that would not allow it to totally withdraw per se.
I had both, and he also had my issue as well. Tight tolerances are fine,.......but this was overkill.
I tried what nwcid said, and used leverage after being 100% certain that the carrier was seated fully. I ain't exactly small, but about popped a blood vessel, and nothing.
Started getting ticked off at the thought of sending a new rifle off to DPMS, and waiting 6 months to get it back. At this point I figured it had to be that rear pin, and trunnion, as there is nothing else to cause this![}:)]
I collapsed the rear stock,.....wrapped a towel around the joint where it joins the lower, and gave a few nice whacks with a loaded rubber mallet. Took about 4 as I didn't want to cause damage.
Sure enough burrs on the end of the pin, and you can see where the finish was taken off on the trunnion from the "press fit."
I am going to do a little Dremel work, and she should be fine now.
A call will be going into DPMS tomorrow of course![:0][}:)][;)]
Thanks for the suggestions.0
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