trigger pull question
I recently acquired a trigger pull guage, and thought I'd do some checking on my rifles to see what I had. On my 673 Remington in 6.5, I adjusted the trigger as perscribed by a website I found here. It seems to be rather inconsistent in the weight it pulls. Sometimes it breaks at 3 lbs and 12 oz., and sometimes it breaks at 3 lbs. and 4 oz., and sometimes it sometimes it is somewhere in between. I thought maybe it was the guage itself, so I tried it on my Ruger Hawkeye, and it broke at 4 lbs and 2 oz., every time. I'm wondering if that is the nature of the beast in the remington trigger, or if I have it misadjusted somehow? Thanks
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I was on another forum a little bit ago, and a young kid was ranting and raving about how most rifles are shipped from the factory with 2-3 lbs of trigger pull. What do the experts say on this forum? Personally, I don't believe that for a minute, considering my ruger 77 and my remington 673 had over 4 lbs out of the box. One other person said all of his lever actions were no more than 4 lbs out of the box, and his 2 winchester 70's were 2 lbs. I am a serious skeptic on this. What say you? 0 -
The better the finish is on the parts that slide . Like the sear and hammer hooks on a 1911 type pistol the more consistence the trigger pull The weight of the trigger pull is more a function of the angle between these two parts and the spring weight that tries to keep them in place. trigger designs change between types of guns but I would guess the finish on the moving parts are the reason they vary so much. 0 -
THE 673 BEING A RELATIVELY RECENT GUN MAY NEED SOME 'BREAK-IN' BEFORE IT SETTLES DOWN, OR YOU COULD POLISH THE TRIGGER PARTS. 0 -
Mike Whiskey, I would think the gun should be broken in. I've probably ran 200-300 rounds through it. I would take the trigger apart, but too be honest, I'm not sure where to start with polishing and working on the parts. Adjusting is one thing, but polishing and honing would be a little bit different for me. I am thinking more along the lines of just replacing the trigger with a rifle basix or a jewell trigger. Hey, I have an additional question with regards to this trigger pull question. Is it possible that the incosistent trigger pull would be contributing to having a flier in my shot groups, or no? Thanks again. 0 -
Are being sure to place the pull gauge on exactly the same location on the trigger each time? The gauge will read a lower pull if placed closer to the tip of the trigger and a higher pull if located higher up on the trigger. Also, be sure you are pulling directly backward each time. Generally a more curved trigger will be easier to place in the same location each time that with a straight trigger. 0 -
glabray, I thought I was being careful to go through the same procedure each time, but you never know. I will try it again and see what happens the 2nd time around. Thanks for the advice. 0 -
hadjii, perry has you headed in the right direction. Great time to tinker a tad and have a gratifying little project...that wont cost squat and probably will surprise you.
...Stoneing/bevel the sear, I'd leave alone but, instead of "breaking in" new trigger group parts, which will eventually work to some degree because all that does is smooth/wear/mate/polish those parts by them being used; I'd take this opportunity to "learn" and get some experience in smoothing up trigger pulls.
...It's all not rocket science. I'm not familiar w/ your particular trigger parts but, no problem.
Do a little research and find the best spring(s) for your gun, I prefer Wolff. CORRECT springs make a world of difference and are cheap. Now, take all the parts in the trigger group, and get some super fine jewelers rouge(B'Nells)/Mothers Mag bright and some 900 grt sandpaper. Take each part and polish with the rouge or Mothers and shine away BY HAND, stop when you feel what difference your efforts made, you'll know.
...Especially the edges of parts that contact other parts, with the Mothers & rouge mentioned, it would be REALLY hard to "take off" too much or screw the parts up; now w/the 900 grtwet sandpaper maybe..if you work at it. You should be able to feel with your fingers and tell what parts are resisting the Mothers and rouge, these parts need to have the paper used on them. The 900grt wet paper is so fine and you can use it so lightly, you should be able to attain the smoothness and polish that could not be achieved with the rouge/Mothers w/o screwing the parts up, changing the diameters,tolerance etc...when finished w/the paper use the Mothers.
...I'd even polish the sear using Mothers are another non abrasive mag wheel polish, even then I'd just leave your angle/bevel of the sear alone...but you don't have to freak if you polish that/those, a little, as these products wont change the angle.
DO NOT USE ANY ABRASIVE ANYTHING ON YOUR SEAR UNLESS YOUR COMPETENT AT TRUE TRIGGER JOBS WORKING WITH THE SEAR
....It's easy and fun, just polish all the parts in the trigger group and find which spring(s) will work the best for your gun/trigger group for a lighter crisp pull. Polish your springs too, just run your fimger nail down the edges to see why..no, not the coil springs [:D]
...Wolff will be more than happy to help you get the best springs for your gun, just give 'ema call...I think you will be pleased with the result and with yourself, go for it...[;)]
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Colt, thanks for the information. It was a great help. I only have one more question. Do you have a link to Wolff springs, or can I just google the name and get a link? Thanks Much 0 -
http://www.gunsprings.com/
wolf springs are great, good luck0 -
"200-300 "...that's just a good start,the others above have given good advise. I'd recommend you check with you local gunsmith about polishing the trigger parts, also replaceing the springs. when I'm asked to do a .22 trigger I tell my customers I don't want to see the gun untill they have shot a couple of 'bricks' of ammo (1000 rds). thats a lot of shooting for a new centerfire rifle, Remingtons quality has gone down hill in the last couple of decades so a trigger job on a new rifle is certainly called for. the Remington trigger can be made to work as well as the timney or basix, and probably for less than a replacement will cost. 0 -
hadjii,
I guess I'll bring up the rear on this one. I am going to disagree with some of the suggestions for good reason.
First and foremost, Remington triggers usually require some sort of tinkering in order to achieve what should be a standard factory trigger. They have made some improvements in the last couple of years but they could do a much better job while maintaining their desire to make cheap parts.
There are three areas that need to be addressed when trying to get the absolute most out of the Remington factory trigger:
- Remove and throw away the factory spring. Replace it with a good Wolff spring and be happy.
- Check side-to-side movement in the contact parts. If there is too much movement, these parts should be shimmed in order to keep them in consistent alignment with each other. This is a contributing factor for your inconsistent let-off.
- Remington was one of the first manufacturers of MIM parts. These parts have a surface hardness which can be compared to case hardening along with all of the problems that can occur. While the parts appear to flat and square, in most cases they aren't. They are not as smooth as they should be for contact surfaces. This contributes to inconsistencies. These surfaces can be smoothed and trued but if too much material is removed you break through the 'case' ruining the part.
Remember that you're working on a very small area and as such, this is not just rubbing some rouge on to make it smooth.
Best.0
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