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What's the best lubication process for an AR15?

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6 comments

  • Nwcid
    I tried gunscrubber once a long time ago and did not care for it.

    I have also used the spray Remoil and it seems good.

    My main cleaning product is CLP (Breakfree). It Cleans, Lubricates, and Protects. One of the really nice things the CLP does it break down carbon build up which is one of the main issues with the AR platform.
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  • burpfire
    hello. i use good ole brake cleaner or carb cleaner. both are very cheap and both flush all the crap out. i use fp-10 oil, as it works great on all my guns from my single shots to semis to full autos.

    you will see a noticable smoothness when using fp-10. only other oil that works better than fp-10 is slip 2000. its pricey, but best ive found. it has a user range of -110degrees to +1250 DEGREES.
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  • Txs
    BreakFree/CLP is a good lubricant, but be aware that it's not the same as military CLP (Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative). The mil-spec stuff's formulation is different, containing more 'cleaner'. BreakFree isn't the one-stop-shop that CLP is, it needs to be used along with a good solvent.

    I like using GunScrubber (or even pressurized non-chlorinated brake cleaner) because it removes debris, both foreign matter and the inevitable fine grit that develops from metal on metal wear. Simply wiping with solvent can leave some of this grit behind, then it just becomes suspended in the lubricant you'll be applying. Dosing with this sort of high pressure solvent and then applying a fresh coat of lubricant makes for the smoothest possible functioning of your machine.

    Gunscrubber is especially useful for shooting down the bore after brushing and solvent patching. After this it only takes one clean patch to wipe any possible residue from the chamber and bore - just be sure and follow this with a light patch of BreakFree. GunScrubber removes everything and - besides corrosion prevention - applying this coat of BreakFree will make your next cleaning much easier.

    GunScrubber is also really good for flushing the gas tube just before cleaning the bore, especially if you've been shooting non-milspec ammo. You do not want to stick anything in the tube to clean it out due to the risk of leaving foreign matter in there, so blowing strong solvent down the tube and letting any residue flow out into the bore is the best move.

    Contrary to what some will tell you, if it's a rifle used by a cop or Average Joe's defensive gun I recommend keeping a heavy coat of BreakFree on your bolt and carrier assembly. It's been my observation that the VAST majority of stoppages with these rifles are due to inadequate lubrication. If these components are dry the rifle will begin to choke when they get dirty and/or really hot, but if kept wet these rifles will continue to run when surprisingly dirty.

    The lower receiver's internals can get by with a drop of lube here and there on obvious bearing surfaces.

    For reference:

    Heavy Coat - Leaves visible marks on the oil when a finger is rubbed across the surface.

    Light coat- Unable to see the oil smear when rubbed with a finger.
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  • dbain99
    Hoppes #9 down the bore and chamber
    CLP down the bore and chamber
    Other internals get Glock 100% synthetic lube #357(or maybe #308 I get them backwards)
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  • onthebreak
    DIDO to burbfire. FP-10 not only works but smells awesome! I put it on me when I go to bed. Drives my wife crazy! :) Brake clean is good but be careful with carb cleaner. It has ill effects on some plastics.
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  • shooter10
    I have learned two nice "tricks" in cleaning my AR this year. Buy a air compressor w/tank, like at Home Depot. They run $60 and up. It works fantastic for blowing off parts and tubes. Then lubricate all interal parts with Castrol Syntec 5-50 Synthetic. And yes I like the Remington green can spray for outside too. Cover scopes when spraying. Shooting AR's since 1966 and for me this process is as good as it gets. And cleaning is so easy to maintain after you do the first lubrication.
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