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Russian Nagant Revolver

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5 comments

  • dreher
    Can you use 32-20 brass to reload for a Nagant? If so, any sugestions for a low velocity load? Powder, powder charge, etc? Will be using 90 grain Sierra bullets. Want to load some and take my Russian father-in-law shooting this weekend. Bought the revolver off GB as I knew it would blow his mind. He was deeply touched. Amazing what you will do to make the wife happy with you.
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  • the_punisher_
    Yes,you can use 32-20 brass to reload for the 7.62 nagant revolver,but you won't get the gas seal which is what the gun is famous for.If you use cut down .223 remington cases in a .30 carbine die it will have the gas seal.I don't have any hand loading data for the 7.62 Nagant right now ,but I'm sure someone will come along with some.hope this helps.
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  • jhimco
    Do you lose accuracy without the famous gas-seal? I have noticed that .32SWLong work- but accuracy is bad.quote:Originally posted by the_punisher_
    Yes,you can use 32-20 brass to reload for the 7.62 nagant revolver,but you won't get the gas seal which is what the gun is famous for.If you use cut down .223 remington cases in a .30 carbine die it will have the gas seal.I don't have any hand loading data for the 7.62 Nagant right now ,but I'm sure someone will come along with some.hope this helps.
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  • Pearyw
    I have used 32-20 brass, but 32 H&R magnum brass is a better choice. I have found that the rim on 32-20 is too thick for both of my Nagants. I would load either one with 3.5 gr of 231. My best load is with a 94 gr cast lead .312" diameter bullet with 3.5 gr of 231 in a 32 H&R magnum case. It has good accuracy and hits at point of aim.
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  • SoreShoulder
    Lee dies are made to turn 32-20 into Nagant.

    The original ammo had a case that went all the way to the end of the cylinder though; it's the diameter of the ouside of the case neck, all the way to the end of the cylinder.

    Supposedly the first 50,000 m1917 revolvers were this way too-i.e. no step in the throat where the case mouth is, just bored straight through-and they worked more or less. However, I had a lot of unburned powder. Next time I would use red dot or blue dot because the flakes won't crowd around the bullet and it's supposed to ignite easily in cast bullet rifle loads.

    I figured the pressure has to be around 38spl if not more because the power was supposedly pretty high. I also figured that since you're dealing with two more-or-less straight revolver rounds of similar overall length, you could compute .310/.357 which is roughly 3/4-and use 3/4 of a 38spl charge with a bullet 3/4 as heavy and the same oal. The loads were super mild so I guess the slight taper of the nagant gives it more volume.

    Starline is the brand of 32-20 to buy. Some say other brands of 32-20 have rims so thick that the cylinder will hit the end of the barrel before you get the hammer cocked.
    I don't like their nagant brass as it is too short and the thin rim leaves a huge barrel-cylinder gap(the rim is what pushes the cylinder forward on a nagant). But the starline 32-20 is just thick enough.

    Maybe I'll try the 223 thing next.

    There's some brands of ammo out there that have brass long enough to be gas seal. I have a box of fiocchi. Some say the necks split because the crimp is so heavy but I will try filling the space above the bullet with Lee Lube to cut stress.
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