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kimber 1911 4" vs sig 1911 4",which is better?

onioni
hi..
looking for help.
trying to get to the bottom of which one to buy.
looking at a 4" kimber,but hear lots of negative about quality/reliability!
hear pretty good things about sig 1911's ,but dont much else about them.
which is better?
any help ??
thanks
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • clays
    For this comparison I would absolutely choose the SIG. Matter of fact I did. SIG 220. I think the reliability, ease of takedown, and quality of a SIG speaks for itself. The quality of Kimber products in the past few years has dropped in order to keep up mass production. I have been disappointed with the Kimbers I have owned and looked at recently. Know two people that have had to send Kimbers back to factory, right out of the box in order to have them function properly. My opinion.
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  • tsr1965
    To answer your question directly I say go with the SIG, as it is one of the only two options you list. A friend of mine sent 3 Kimber's with alloy frames back, and eventually traded them for a Wilson. If you want reliable, and are looking for the 4" Commander sized 1911, then why not Colt?...Para Ordnance(Para USA) is outstanding with reliability too.

    Best
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  • Mk 19
    In a 1911? I would say SIG, they really did a great job putting them together
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  • gknaka2
    I bought a Kimber 5" target and would never buy one again. Feed reliability is atrocious. Same cartridge that wouldn't feed in the Kimber fed in a Colt and a Springfield.
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  • 511pe
    Kimber with internal extractor. Most all 1911s feed hard ball to which they where redesigned to shoot fairly well. Try to understand hollow point ammo didn't seem to good until the 1980s for use in hand guns. They seemed to help prevent ricochet or increase impact trauma. Expansion left lots to be desired. The 1911, I understand was re-calibrated into a .45 from something like a .38 for a Government contract. Perhaps that's why the barrel is thin. It's easier to have better feed reliability with .38 super or 9mm Luger because of the extra thickness that may be relieved to better ramp a barrel to feed unlike a .45 I don't like anything Sig has ever made to include a look a like 1911 that seems not so comfy for me to shoot. I also don't care for Para or Smith&Wesson 1911 attempts either. A 1911 is supposed to be a 1911. Internal firing pins blocks, external extractors, ambi controls, bull barrels, fully ramped barrels, link-less barrels, radial-used barrel feed ramps, pistol lengths shorter than Commander length, full length guide rods, & reverse recoil spring plugs are not how the 1911 was initially designed or introduced. When something is changed something is lost. Example: a standard 1911 slide may be cycled by pushing against the recoil spring plug area except when it's got a full length guide rod. Full length rods have been known to contribute to jams for years and make the take down more interesting. I'd go with the Kimber & shoot hard ball. It's American made and has surpassed the "measurable wear tests" on a factor production basic 5" model.
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  • perry shooter
    Thank you511peYou are a true believer of what a 1911 pistol should be. [^][:D]
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  • beantownshootah
    quote:Originally posted by 511pe
    I'd go with the Kimber & shoot hard ball. It's American made and has surpassed the "measurable wear tests" on a factor production basic 5" model.

    Just to be clear, the SIG 1911s are manufactured at their facility in Exeter New Hampshire. So they're American-made too.

    I haven't had enough experience with either SIG or Kimber 1911s to say directly which is better.

    What I can say, I think, is that SIG has outstanding quality control. Chances of you getting a "lemon" SIG are pretty low.

    Personally, if I were just interested in a "shooter" 1911, I'd skip both of the above and get a used Colt instead. Hard to go wrong that way, I think.
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  • 511pe
    #1)An axis pin extractor is inferior to one that interlocks simply because an internal is a highly complex yet simple design. One part interlocks & extracts the spent empty casing with no fastener but to interlock to a firing pin retainer plate and is only "one part" and not three separate parts. #2) Just because a manufacturing plant is located within the U.S.A. does not mean all parts are made here. They may be assembly plants. Example: most AK's. Toyota's are said to be made within the U.S.A. but appear to be comprised of plastics made in China and believed to be assembled here. Ever wounder why Lexus's head lights seem to biodegrade faster than most U.S.A. made vehicles? 3) Kimber is a proven quality standard in 1911 design. I believe they started with the 1911 design, not fallow after everyone else to keep up with the Jone's. I find it odd that Smith&Wesson actually has a design like the 1911, because the Smith&Wesson was what most who seemed to not want a 1911, seemed to purchase. Sig on the other hand... I feel still must prove it's self in the 1911 market. That grip safety... Ouch! By the way my .38 super & 9mm 1911s still feed all manufactured ammo: hollow points, ball, imported steel casing stuff with absolutely no jams or feed problems whatsoever(even limp wrist-ed) but I overhauled them myself. It's been well over 2,500 rounds on my ISMI recoil springs though. I can easily make a Glock fail to feed simply by my right thumb activating the slide lock on their smaller stuff before emptying a mag unlike 1911s. A Glock is a fantastic duty firearm to limit liability for lack of external hammers and has good internal safeties, though, I must keep my thumb down or out from my hold.
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  • PistolNut
    Got several Kimbers. About the same for reliability. Carry a Springfield TRP Stainless. Heavy as hell but I know it works every time.
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  • keystone1974
    I have a kimber ultra cdl in 9 mm. The gun is so balanced that when I picked it up- I had to have it. When I first took it to the range it did jam. I was mad!!! I spent over $1000 on this lemon I thought... So I read the manual- it states that there is a Break-in period. So before I was going to send it back, I cleaned it good and took it back out. It never jammed again; even with hollow points. My first 9 mm i bought a used Ruger stainless p89 dc I still have it, I paid $300 and it's Never jammed even after a long day of shooting... It's still accurate( i like the adjustable rear sight) I won't ever sell it, but the kimber is more accurate and wouldn't sell it either. I don't like cleaning it though: not used to taking down 1911's. Had a Springfield - didn't like it/ sold it. Bought a stainless Berretta 40 cal. It wasn't accurate; but take down was a dream! One button and a little lever and Bam it apart. I would go with the Kimber
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