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muzzle brake question (removal)

keiths487
i have a remington bdl in 7mmSTW with a factory installed brake, i had read/heard there is a way to remove and replace with a non vented/ported extension...

i like the gun and i like the brake (on the bench) but hunting i don't want to muff or plug while hunting...

any ideas

if i can't do this i'm considering selling/trading it, what would be a fair price, stainless/synthetic de-tachable mag 25.5" barrel plus brake, less than 40rds fired, great shooting factory gun, all original and 98% plus condition
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Comments

4 comments

Date Votes
  • sandwarrior
    Keith,

    Welcome to the forums.

    First to remove the factory installed muzzle brake you will probably need some heat like a propane torch. Next you will need a barrel vise to hold the barrel while you 'un-torque' it. Third you may need some kind of spanner if there are no flats on your brake. The latter two are to prevent damage while removing.

    Or, take it to a gunsmith and he may not charge too much.

    I will say that with or without the brake, the 7mm STW is going to kill your hearing.

    AS far as value, we would need to see some pics of the rifle. But as you describe it used, somewhere around $600-$700 without the scope.
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  • keiths487
    thanks for the quick reply sandwarrior, trying to justify a new gun, thought of selling but the gun is a good shooter, would like to loose the break though...BTW long time lurker, new poster[;)]

    great sight with great info
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  • sandwarrior
    kieths487,

    Glad to have you posting here. Yes, it's a great site. I, too have learned a ton of stuff here.


    Anyways, I guess what I should have said in my upper post is, the 7mm STW has a lot of loudness, brake or no brake. You are going to find out the hard way (unless you are already familiar with recoiling rifles of that magnitude) how much of a tradeoff the muzzleblast is vs. the recoil. You may not save your hearing, but your sinuses will thank you for taking the recoil. And your shoulder may thank your sinuses for putting up with blast. There's no way around one or the other with a rifle that size.
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  • azpowerwagon
    The factory used something similar to red loctite adhesive on the brake/barrel threads. As mentioned, this will soften with heat from the propane torch. Just to steam iron hot. Don't discolor the metal.
    Find a drill of the correct diameter to fit through the holes in the brake..use the smooth end of the drill and place through out the other side. Now you have a lever to help twist the brake and not burn your hand or damage the brake.
    Barrel vise for this job....two 1/2inchX6inch pcs. of pine stock. Clean your barrel of all oil and clamp between the wood in your vise nice and tight. Apply heat and off with the brake!
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