Best adhesive for wood repair
I have a small chip broken off a walnut fore arm. The break is clean and oil free. What would be a good adhesive to use for the repair?
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I prefer AcraGlass, but to get it without floc you have to buy bulk.
What might work best for you would be Satellite City Hot Stuff. You might be better off with the Super T. It has a thicker consistency, but it also has a longer work time. 10-20 seconds compared to five with the regular Hot Stuff.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=13081/Product/HOT_STUFF_INSTANT_GLUE0 -
Acraglass, gorilla glue and I like the old standby yellow carpenters glue. A lot depends on the break. 0 -
Look for a dark wood glue, it will help blend in the repair better. The most important thing is a good clamping force applied to the repair while the glue sets 0 -
Any number of them *could* work.
The "hot stuff" is basically the same as Krazy glue. That will work well for a small chip.
Ordinary "white glue" (ie yellow carpenter's glue) could work well, plus when wet its easy to wipe off excess.
I'd avoid the polyurethane glues (eg Gorilla glue). Even though those are super strong, they tend to foam while curing and can leak out of cracks.0 -
quote:Originally posted by forgemonkey
,,,,two part epoxy,,,,use very sparingly and immediately wipe off any excess,,,,,,dries clear and with a good 'fit' it's almost undetectable,,,,
+1 on the five minute epoxy.
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"I prefer AcraGlass" +1......ELECTRICAL TAPE MAKES A GOOD 'CLAMP' 0 -
Titebond II Dark Wood Glue works very good. 0 -
Hello on the fix for a chipped wood stock.
Depending upon the chip, crack, etc., my first choice is two-part epoxy. Second choice is carpenter's waterproof wood glue. Acra-Glas is Brownell's high-rent epoxy and I'd pass on that for simple repairs. Use warm water for clean-up for the wood glue and use plain old white vinegar for clean-up on the two-part epoxy.
NEVER, NEVER use that gorilla glue for any gun repairs (or any real repairs of any kind). When it fails, it will "pop" apart. My opinion is that it is a useless product, because you cannot trust it to hold. It holds well when it does hold, but when it fails it fails instantly. ALSO it is a sloppy mess and not precise, because it "gets bigger" when it dries, foaming up beyond it's original size. You never know how much to use for any given application. It can mess up your gun wood.
Cyano-acrylics (Krazy-Glue types) are used a lot, but their use can be iffy and cause a lot of headaches unless you really are familiar in general with handling them and specifically familiar with them in thier use with guns.
AS FAR AS CLAMPING, I suggest you use surgical rubber tubing, which is available at most pharmacies in various OD's and wall thicknesses. Regualr clamps of various types are useful, but I find that in most cases, the rubber tubing is the go-to fix. For most applications, a three-foot piece of 1/4" thin wall tubing is just right. Do your repair, press it in place tightly, clean up excess glue, then put a small piece of easily-removable tape over it to hold it in place. Then wrap the tubing around the repair, stretching it as you go and wrapping multiple times. Hold in place by slipping the end under itself.0 -
2 part epoxy -slow cure-clear-use very little ,tape and wait 0 -
Micro-Bed 0 -
Epoxy without doubt, clear without color. In the case as I perceive it, I would add to wipe the job with a rag dampened in alcohol soon after you put the chip in place. Anyone with real experience with glues would recco epoxy. 0
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