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Carbide dies

SCOUT5
I am rounding up gear to begin reloading. Finally bought a press and will be buying dies soon.

My question is r/t carbide dies. Can those with experience tell the pros and cons of them vs standards dies. I have read where lubricating the case is not necessary if using carbide dies. How large a factor is this and what other differences are there? Do carbide dies make the process faster, easier (by eliminating a step), or in any way help produce better or more uniform loads?

I am new to this so if you have anything to add r/t to this beyond my question please share that as well.

I am aware of the initial cost difference so that is not my question.

Thanks,

Scout
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • Bert H.
    Carbide dies are the only way to go when reloading straight-walled pistol cases. I have reloaded 10s of thousands of 44 Magnum, .357 Magnum, .38 Spl, and .45 ACP with carbide dies. Make sure that you also buy and use a case tumbler (Lyman makes several good ones).
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  • lpaalp
    The only significant difference is that carbide dies are not supposed to require lubrication. However, most reloaders will tell you to lube cases even when using them, and lubing cases is not an onerous chore when reloading. Carbide dies are appreciably more expensive than standard steel dies, but function exactly the same.
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  • lpaalp
    ...except when reloading straight walled pistol cases, as stated above.
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  • SCOUT5
    Okay, I will be reloading some straight wall pistol cases, .454 and 45c to begin with and most likely .357 in time. So with this advice I will buy carbide dies for those, and it seems a tumbler.

    I am getting into reloading because I am going to be reloading a wildcat round to use deer hunting here in Indiana, and the cost of ammo in general and for my .300 wsm particularly. In time I will reload many calibers as I learn what I am doing and obtain the gear to do so.

    When reloading the shouldered rifle cartridges, carbide dies, yes, no, or not a real difference? Thanks for the replies so far,

    Scout
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  • cussedemgun
    scout,

    "Carbide dies" is a misleading term. More accurately they should be called 'dies with a carbide sizer'. The only dies avalible in carbide are the straight walled cases. The only carbide part of the die set is a small carbide ring in the mouth of the sizer die. The whole die or set is NOT made from carbide.

    Two advantages of using a carbide sizing die;
    1) lube is not required (as mentioned)
    2) scratching of the case wall is reduced as carbide does not wear & they will last several lifetimes unless broken or rusted.

    FWIW - the same set of dies (carbide 454 Casull) will also load 45 Colt. A different set is required for 45 ACP.

    Jim
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  • mbsams
    Carbide dies are only for straight walled cases and things go better with a little Hornady spary lube. Bottle neck cases require standard steel dies - carbides are not made for them. Lube steel dies well. Most loading manuals have instructions for straight wall and bottle neck case reloading. I have several and there is good stuff in each one.
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  • perry shooter
    as others have stated if you load a lot of rounds in my case over 400,000 rounds in a lifetime of 45ACP loading and you use a progressive reloading press in my case a STAR it would be almost impossible to load that volume with normal dies. I don't know for a fact but suspect the Star Life-Tyme "their spelling not mine" were among if not the first maker of carbide dies. There have been makers of bottle necked rifle cases that were full length carbide but the are big bucks in price and most people don't load rifle cartridges in BULK. one thing to be aware of is when installing carbide sizing die DON'T run the presses RAM into the mouth of the die it may crack the ring and ruin it.I like the idea of carbide dies for another reason on Rifle cases as then you don't have to get the case lube off the round before firing . Most people don't bother to remove case lube but I think lube if not removed increases BOLT THRUST and may contribute to bolt locking lug SET-BACK in a HIGH PRESSURE cartridge like the WSS magnums.
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  • gskyhawk
    i agree that lube should be cleaned off

    some thing else that you should do when reloading bottle neck cartridges is to put a little lube on the inside of the neck, you don't need to do this with every round , i usually do about every 5th case , myself i just take the case and press the mouth donw on the lube pad , that way it puts a little lube on the inside and also the very edge

    also be carefull that you don't get to much lube on the outside of the case in the shoulder area , if you get dents in that area it means you have to much lube on your cases
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  • dcs shooters
    quote:Originally posted by mbsams
    Carbide dies are only for STRIGHT WALLED PISTOL--WRONG-- and things go better with a little Hornady spary lube. Bottle neck cases require standard steel dies - carbides ARE made for them.
    BUT are very expencive and you still have to lube the brass [;)]
    Lube steel dies well. Most loading manuals have instructions for straight wall and bottle neck case reloading. I have several and there is good stuff in each one.


    I've loaded thousands of 38-45acp-44mag-357, and NEVER lubed one when using carbide sizing dies. Use a tumbler and get the brass clean and there is NO reason to lube.
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  • Nwcid
    While I liked the RCBS carbide dies I HAD, I really like the Hornday TiN dies. Price is similar but they feel much smoother to me when using them.

    There might be some high end dies out there that are better but I have not tried.
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