870 Wingmaster clean shell ejection
I have a 1981 Wingmaster 12 GA Ser V6218__V that I bought thru Gunbroker in Jan 2010 from a dealer (co-signment). It was my first GB purchase, it looked clean. I put in the closet, after I contacted Remington to verify the date of manufacture. I took it out this month before deer season (has deer barrel) and tried it. It won't eject winchester rackmaster 2 3/4 shells cleanly, shells get stuck on ejector but they will come out of barrel chamber about 1/2 inch. Its a bad ejector which is riveted to inside back wall of chamber, according to an experienced on-site gunsmith at the shooting range. He said that is the only weakness in the design. He says about $125 to fix. I feel like I've been screwed. I email the dealer, no reply. I call, he says I had 3 days to try gun. Is there anything I can do? I had to take another gun deer hunting. Tony
0
-
no reason for the seller to do anything after this much time , first off take the gun apart and give it a real good cleaning , now go find some different shells and try them , if they do the same then take it to a different smith and have it looked at
$125 sounds way out of line to me
again the first thing to do is make sure you really have a problem , just because the on site local gunsmith says so , does not mean crap , he may have been short on work and trying to get some easy money or he may really know what hes talking about but again its up to you to do your home work before shelling out big bucks0 -
If you don't mind the Express matte black finish, you could go with this 870 Express receiver (with good ejector) and swap over your forend with slide action bars, stock, barrel, and trigger assembly. This is most likely the least expensive route. The reason it costs $125 is that ejector spring is rivited to the inside of the left side of the receiver, and most gunsmiths will want to re-blue so the shiny rivets blend in with the receiver. You can buy the rivets and ejector spring yourself through Brownells, and do it yourself. Not extremely hard if you can peen a rivet, and are handy with tools. You drill out the old rivets to remove them.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=2029055090 -
I, and another member, have run into this before.
http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4805670 -
Adding a couple of thoughts, per above comments:
1) You now have no recourse w/ seller
2) Try some DIFFERENT ammo
3) $125 is a BIG GOUGE for this repair job!
4) By "shells ....... will come out of barrel chamber about 1/2 inch": you mean the ejection port here.
5) Get a 2nd opinion. This is a 10-minute fix, & the rivet is visible on the left outside of receiver - not "inside back wall of chamber". A good 'smith can even save/reutilize the original rivet. I've had it done.0 -
I'm going to agree with Gskyhawk. I've got an 870 that will eat anything you feed it. Except certain aluminum base shells. I'm not familiar with the rackmaster shells so I don't know what bases they have. But I definitely agree with a good cleaning and a couple different kinds of ammo being tested to first determine if the problem is even with the gun.
If the problem IS the gun, I'd take up Makindu on the matte receiver auction. Swap the parts out, get the gun running, and if you can't stand the mismatch, refinish the entire gun with a do it yourself duracoat. You can go solid color, camo, whatever your heart desires. Spray paint will work, but will NOT last long in the woods against branches, etc.0 -
Take a second look and see if the ejector Spring is still present and not broken. This will cause a symptom similar to what you're describing. More often than not this is the offending part and not the Ejector proper. Once the firearm is disassembled and the correct machine cutter is used this would then be no more than a 10-20min job. The correct swaging punches should be used as well. Then you could put it back together yourself if you are stuck on the 10min time frame.[:)] And no refinishing required. The correct tooling alone would cost the 'smith more than he would probably charge for the repair. I definitely would not go out and buy another firearm to fix a 30-60$ repair (depending on area). 0 -
I bought a used 870 with the same type of problem. I tried bending the ejector spring back to original form but it broke.
Checked prices to replace the spring and found out that the rivet has to be replaced. After checking around I bought a size 1 stainless screw and a borrowed a tap set. Drilled a small hole where the spring rivet was, tapped the hole and secured the new spring with the screw. The top of the screw had to be ground down slightly to avoid being hit by the shell getting ejected. Works like a charm. Total cost- Maybe $20[8D].
I need a photo bucket account so I can post pics of it or send me your email and I will email a photo of the completed job. I used a bench type drill and went slowly. If it doesn't work then ship it off to a gun smith.0 -
This is exactly what the problem is:
The rim of the hull (of the shell) will hang up before the rest of it is extracted from the chamber causing it to FTE.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=11943
It would be item 17 in the diagram.
That slider piece is riveted in, and I didn't know what it was supposed to look like originally.
I ejected 8 shells total since I owned the gun, all have a nick of the hull of the lip of the brass, and were a bear to get out. So I paid $525 w/ shipping to FFLD for a broken gun & extra deer barrel. So a screwing I got from my first GB purchase. Its not the shells, for sure. That is what this boiled down to. And I'm not a machinist. I'm not going to take a chance & fix myself and do a half-ass job. Thanks for all your input.
TH0 -
I think I will try and order the parts from this Numrich place,
the slider, rivets, and whatever else I need and just take it to a gunsmith here in Mesa Az or someplace that has done this kind of work before and as long as they re-blue where the rivets go, then maybe this might work. I just want good high quality parts that won't fail and really don't want to get a screwing again by buying some inferior parts made in China or something like that. Then I will send a bill to the dealer and see if he is cares or doesn't. My hard lesson learned is to take a firearm to the range within a week of aquiring and I'm sorry I didn't do that.0 -
if you paid that much for the gun it sounds like it was new or near new so have you try calling Remington ? you may be able to get it fixed for the price of shipping , and IF they are wiling to fix it for you , since its a shotgun you can box it up yourself , take it to the post office and mail it priortiy mail with insurance for abour $20 or so ,, no FFL needed to send a gun back to the factroy for repairs 0 -
Would Remington fix a gun made in 1981 ? Thats when it was made. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by tdhamrick
Would Remington fix a gun made in 1981 ? Thats when it was made.
Yes, Remington will repair it. And the correct parts will be used.0 -
You won't know until you ask. 0 -
I would recommend reading the original question and responses in the Thread at the link below as it sounds fairly similar to your problem!
http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=480567
I am sorry that I did not respond sooner! I think I got the two Threads confused!0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
14 comments